view slideshow »

Brian Reyes: An Elegant Play on Volume

Brian Reyes may be young, but he's been in the fashion business long enough to know the importance of developing a signature style.

It is clear by Reyes' Spring 2007 collection, shown the afternoon of Sunday, September 10th in the UPS Hub at Bryant Park, that tailored shirtdresses, either belted or left to hang in softly controlled pleats, tiny bodices on top of short, slightly puffed minis and slip-like cocktail gowns with graphic, but intricate prints, are what he does best.

Slightly Asian in theme, Reyes moved away from the sheerness of his last collection and focused on details like subtle pleating and a spare amount of ruffles, both of which ultimately helped to establish Reyes’ main point: creating a range of volumes. Varying from slightly oversizing a shirt so that it became a dress, to inflating a short, black dress into a delicate bubble that transformed the model’s body into a little bud on a stem, his proportions were always elegant and very wearable.

The play in volume and proportion came from water. "The power of water crashing on rocks," Reyes explained backstage after his show. "I wanted to capture that sort of strength and elegance."

Reyes also added various sporty elements, like a miniscule pair of '70s-style rollerskating shorts, which added youth and spunk to a rather serious lineup of clothes that could work for day, but will most definitely take his clients right into night.

In keeping with the sober color scheme that seems to be many designers' quiet way of commenting on the current political climate this season, Reyes also chose a restrained palette. Touches of intense color - albeit subdued brights, like a sienna orange, rather than abrasive florescent hues – were toned down by their coupling with muted neutrals or basic black. A good color sense has been one of Reyes strengths from the start.

* New York: Sheer Structures at Brian Reyes * Fall 2006: Boy Meets Girl at Jose Ramon Reyes		* Vera Wang Resort: Surreal Sophistication * Jason Wu Resort: French New Wave Refresher