Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Yohji Yamamoto: Searching for a Different Beat

Godfrey Deeny
January 18th, 2008 @ 2:50 PM - Paris

Yohji Yamamoto always marches to a different drummer than everyone else in Paris; and he did again Thursday in commanding a military mood with his fall 2008 men’s collection.

A single snare drum tattooed out a marching beat as the first of a regiment of models marched out in attired like Mittel European officers on weekend leave.

“Men’s fashion has been quite feminine for a while. I wanted to get back its masculinity,” smiled Yamamoto, as a junior staff member proffered him a glass of champagne.

In a sense, Yamamoto’s collections always seemed designed for a yet to be made movie, in this case an Alpine version of “Cold Mountain” where conquering heroes return home to their love ones. Yes, the collection also had a Celtic air, as a rugged trio of unshaven youths appeared in dark suits entirely wrapped in dark green tartan blankets.

There was also the blackest group undertaker costumes enlivened by the designer’s smart use of multiple buttons and unusual cuts turning a funeral parlor owner into a rock aristocrat.

But, in the pitiless world that is fashion, the stars of the show were the photographers; in a giddy mood they began heckling the models, beginning a running commentary on the guys on the catwalk. “Wow, he looks cute,” snipped one; “Hey beautiful, come on over,” rasped another in Italian.

And, when several models unwound cashmere scarves that were elaborately sewn on the great coats, several photographers began humming the tune to a striptease.

Post show as guests sipped on bubbly backstage, one blond model accosted two critics, lamenting, “Why were you guys laughing at us?”

As we said, fashion can and will be cruel.

Back to RUNWAY :: Add to Shopping Bag :: Printable Version :: Email to a friend

Fashion Wire Daily: The Last Word in Fashion

* Y-3: No Sweat

* Ralph Lauren’s Hacienda Hipsters

* Chanel’s Newly Minted Vintage