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Yohji Yamamoto: Searching for a Different Beat

Yohji Yamamoto always marches to a different drummer than everyone else in Paris; and he did again Thursday in commanding a military mood with his fall 2008 men’s collection.

A single snare drum tattooed out a marching beat as the first of a regiment of models marched out in attired like Mittel European officers on weekend leave.

“Men’s fashion has been quite feminine for a while. I wanted to get back its masculinity,” smiled Yamamoto, as a junior staff member proffered him a glass of champagne.

In a sense, Yamamoto’s collections always seemed designed for a yet to be made movie, in this case an Alpine version of “Cold Mountain” where conquering heroes return home to their love ones. Yes, the collection also had a Celtic air, as a rugged trio of unshaven youths appeared in dark suits entirely wrapped in dark green tartan blankets.

There was also the blackest group undertaker costumes enlivened by the designer’s smart use of multiple buttons and unusual cuts turning a funeral parlor owner into a rock aristocrat.

But, in the pitiless world that is fashion, the stars of the show were the photographers; in a giddy mood they began heckling the models, beginning a running commentary on the guys on the catwalk. “Wow, he looks cute,” snipped one; “Hey beautiful, come on over,” rasped another in Italian.

And, when several models unwound cashmere scarves that were elaborately sewn on the great coats, several photographers began humming the tune to a striptease.

Post show as guests sipped on bubbly backstage, one blond model accosted two critics, lamenting, “Why were you guys laughing at us?”

As we said, fashion can and will be cruel.

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