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Lanvin Partnering with H&M September 02nd, 2010 @ 00:54 AM


Coach Opens Ambitiously in Paris September 01st, 2010 @ 00:26 AM


Lacoste Names Oliveira Baptista New Artistic Director August 31st, 2010 @ 1:57 PM


LVMH Heads South in Latest Acquisition July 02nd, 2010 @ 00:12 AM


Hakaan Wins Andam Award June 30th, 2010 @ 11:05 AM


Net-a-Porter Gets Masculine June 10th, 2010 @ 8:02 PM


Brunello Cucinelli Named Italian Entrepreneur Of The Year June 04th, 2010 @ 4:16 PM


Hermes Replaces Gaultier With Lemaire May 26th, 2010 @ 12:56 AM


Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Last 12 Months May 26th, 2010 @ 00:47 AM


Ungaro Names Gilles Deacon Creative Director May 25th, 2010 @ 3:47 PM


Aquascutum Hires Sykes as Design Director May 17th, 2010 @ 00:07 AM


Hermes Scores 18.5 Percent Rise in First Quarter Turnover May 06th, 2010 @ 00:49 AM


Rodarte to Create "Breathless"-Inspired T-Shirts for Film's 50th Anniversary May 05th, 2010 @ 6:05 PM


Gen Art to Shut Down After 16 Years May 05th, 2010 @ 5:40 PM


Jean-Louis Dumas Dead at 72 May 03rd, 2010 @ 00:46 AM


Armani Opens Debut Hotel in Dubai April 28th, 2010 @ 4:39 PM


Japanese/Chinese Bank Buys Stake in Costume National April 22nd, 2010 @ 12:42 AM


Archs Out at Ungaro, Deacon Rumored In April 21st, 2010 @ 11:53 AM


Vera Wang and David's Bridal Announce New Collaboration April 20th, 2010 @ 2:43 PM


Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Latest Half Year April 20th, 2010 @ 00:50 AM



 

Impractical Shoes, Poetry and Patti Smith

Renata Espinosa
October 05th, 2006 @ 00:18 AM - Paris

Usually, I love this part of my job - fashion weeks.

But these days, it seems rather irrelevant, as there are more pressing concerns at hand in the world.

So when a fashion show becomes a work of poetry, created in the moment and for the moment, I perk up a little.

I think what my life is missing right now, among many things, is poetry.

I walked a mile in impractical shoes to see a show the other day - Ann Demeulemeester - because I took the wrong Metro line to the 17th arrondissement, the far flung neighborhood where the show was being held. But no matter, what Boulevard Berthier lacks in charm, it makes up for at the end of the tunnel, when you finally find the vaulted light and champagne-filled space you've been looking for (at a very different address than you'd thought you were walking to when you first set out).

I think, too, when you've got a fresh haircut, like I did that day, the world is yours and who cares how far you have to walk to find it.

Demeulemeester - one of the famed Antwerp 6 - celebrated her 20th anniversary this year. And her birthday present - a poem written and spoken on the spot, as the model's walked down the runway, by none other than Patti Smith (line breaks are mine):

tattered coat and your scattered hopes
and your silver charms
unfettered, unspoiled
and she sees
lace
white eyelet cloth
billowing
into the sea
Easter
Muslim nets form tents
she dreams of cloth
silver charms

So often the soundtracks to shows fade into the background - you're supposed to notice and not notice them, they augment and highlight and make the clothes special, but you're not supposed to take them terribly literally.

As I wrote the words - rather than simply listening to them (because I was bound to forget them otherwise) - it was quite a trip, thinking - wow - she based her collection on this poem by Patti Smith, literally. But this is why you always go backstage when you're reviewing a collection, because then you understand - NO - Demeulemeester is merely referencing her very first collection, based on Patti Smith's "Wave" and now, it's the reverse, she's got Patti Smith there with her, composing poetry inspired by her collection.

The blisters on my feet, rewarded.

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