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London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


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London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule

Godfrey Deeny
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM - Sao Paulo

London Fashion Week (LFW) has announced its schedule for its next menswear season and though heralding the return of British label Alexander McQueen, the line up notably does not include any major international heavy hitter designer.

The release of the list also underlines that the London season – known as London Collections: Men - has now placed itself in direct conflict with Pitti, the giant menswear trade show in Florence.
London Collections: Men will take place from Monday to Wednesday, Jan. 7 to 9. Pitti will run from Jan 8 to 11.

In an important PR coup, London did succeed in luring the house of Alexander McQueen back to the UK capital. McQueen previously showed his men’s clothes in Milan, though this house’s most recent display was not actually a runway show, but a restrained presentation in a back room of Milan´s train station. Texan Tom Ford will also present his men’s collection, though only on a private by appointment basis.

London Collections Men had hoped to attract a major league North American or Continental label to boost the prestige of the UK season, and had even held talks with Giorgio Armani about bringing his Emporio collection to London, at least for a one-time event. However, these talks eventually foundered, as Armani has still not fully absorbed his recent buy-back of his C21 license, which controls much of the designer’s business in the United Kingdom.

The British season can at least boast of New York’s Joseph Abboud, even if no name European designer has joined the ranks. Though Abboud had shown there previously, at LFW´s successful debut men’s season in June.

The UK men’s season will also add some new names to its calendar, notably Hardy Aimes, which in January of this year had staged a runway show in Pitti. In August, when London first announced its menswear dates, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone, complained about being, “truly surprised,” by the overlapping seasons, adding that London’s move had failed to “minimize costs,” for buyers and journalists “at a delicate moment for half the world’s economies.” London’s failure to attract major non-British labels will be greeted with schadenfraude in Florence.

Altogether, over 50 menswear designers will show their autumn/winter 2013-14 collections in January. High profile labels such as Burberry, Belstaff and Dunhill; and hipster house like Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll will also show in London.

"All of us involved in the first London Collections: Men were overwhelmed by the response to the first week in June, especially from an international perspective," said Dylan Jones, editor-in-chief of the UK edition of GQ editor. "We have had even more enthusiasm and support for the second season, and we are all looking forward to January being bigger and better than last time."

Separately, the British Fashion revealed that Fashion Forward will sponsor new boy Lou Dalton and renew its support for Christopher Shannon, E.Tautz a and J.W. Anderson. Fashion Forward is sponsored by eBay and supported by the Mayor of London, who, unlike his Paris, Berlin or New York equivalent generally does not attend shows.

In June, London Collections: Men pulled off a huge publicity coup when Prince Charles hosted its opening reception. Continuing its social moves, this coming January Tommy Hilfiger will throw a drinks reception; Mr Porter and Tom Ford are to stage parties; and GQ will host a dinner for Tinie Tempah.

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