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Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



Marc by Marc Reaches Great Lengths

Godfrey Deeny
February 07th, 2006 @ 4:42 PM - New York

In the peripatetic wanderings around the fashion planet, from tents in Red Square to Oscar Niemeyer designed show spaces in Rio, one frequently poses the question: Which is the most influential fashion label around? Well, the answer in terms of dressing the next generation of consumers has got to be Marc by Marc Jacobs, the junior label of the New York designer.

It's an uncanny fact, but judging by the youthful fans in standing room, not front row, at runway events as far apart as Riga or Sydney, one can only be impressed by the reach of this line, itself a continual re-interpretation of artistically inclined kids in New York.

Well, word up to fashion fans and apparel plant owners in Turkey and China, this fall Marc's young followers will be having a casual hippie moment, the sort their herb smoking Wild Child aunts and uncles once enjoyed.

Gone are the drain pipes; in are the stove pipes. Forget any minis; bring out your old prairie skirts. The opening look was a Western beauty in striped vest and long wide black skirt, the sort of lass Josey Wales would protect.

There was an artless quality to the whole show in the Armory on Lexington that had a certain charm – even if after last night's poetically cool signature show, today's event felt rather prosaic.

Brushed and distressed wool or flannel pants with twill capes and wildly flared jackets all hid enormous amount of the body, ideal for young women learning to deal with their sexuality, or not dealing with it, maybe. Clunky boots and bulbous wedges or pendants featuring anchors and hearts added to the protective quality of the fashion.

And, maybe it's the sign of a last desperate attempt of this plume to recapture his misspent youth in Tompkins Square Park, but there was quite a lot even for an old bloke in this show. A great looking patchwork merino cardigan in midnight blue hues and cool officer's jacket in similar shades – sort of Gen. Gordon skips Khartoum and hits a rave instead.

Not a bad way to wield influence at all.

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