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Vera Wang's Dégagé Spring

Continuing the dance-inspired theme she unveiled in her Resort collection in June, Vera Wang's Spring 2007 outing - shown Thursday, September 14th in The Tent at Bryant Park - once again paid sartorial homage to Martha Graham and co., but this time the designer broadened her repertoire by adding Japanese elements to the mix.

In addition to the cozy ballet wrap sweaters and cardigans that were tossed over billowy organza tunics and cropped charmeuse warm up pants - worn with a dancer's post-rehearsal insouciance despite the luxe fabrications, the models' feet clad in hand-tooled ivory ballet flats - there were obi-wrapped kimono jackets, some plain, others elaborately embroidered, and “ceremonial” brocade dresses, one of which folded over on itself, origami-style, caught at the waist with a matching self-belt.

Wang's poetically proportioned clothes suggest seduction, rather than overt sexuality - as in a bronze coat dress whose back zipper was half-undone as if the wearer was hurrying home from an illicit assignation. They also suggest movement through the use of cleverly manipulated over layers, including one floor length ivory dress whose beaded gray organza shell floated around the body like smoke, and a simple long-sleeve heather gray tunic with a flat ruffled chiffon panel billowing from its lower half.

There were a few looks rendered cumbersome by too much fabric around the hips and, despite its air of nonchalant elegance, much of the collection - at least as styled here - would require a fair amount of body confidence to pull off due to the tricky, bottom-heavy silhouette.

But there were many wearable pieces from which to choose, and with a sharp-eyed edit, one could cherry pick an item from almost every outfit. And those who can't afford Wang's signature collection will soon be able to cherry pick pieces from the just-announced line she's designing for Kohl's, called Very Vera, which will launch next Fall.

Overall, this was a uniquely personal, artistically realized, envelope-pushing outing. And Wang's beloved father - who always encouraged his daughter's talent and died the morning of the show, with the designer at his bedside - would have had ample reason to be proud.

* Vera Wang + Rothko and Ripley = Fashion Perfection * Vera Wang: From Russia with Wit		* Vera Wang Resort: Surreal Sophistication * Jason Wu Resort: French New Wave Refresher