Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Calvin Klein: Grand Hotel Minimalism

Godfrey Deeny
February 08th, 2007 @ 7:18 PM - New York

Talk about clothes for making a great entrance in some cathedral high atrium of a swish modernist hotel. Nothing better highlighted American fashion’s current thrall with the Thirties than Calvin Klein’s super focused and brilliantly cut collection, all of whose looks would be ideal for Greta Garbo were she around today.

Designers this week in New York have cast their gaze longingly back onto the last era of the grand tour, when foreign travel was exotic and elitist, not the long-distance mass transit of today. But where the response of many was an update of the decorative functionality of Art Deco, designer Francisco Costa has given Calvin Klein’s minimalist traditions a new twist.

The opening gray wool coat on the label’s model ambassador Natalia Vodianova set the tone of unadorned chic, where the fashion was authoritative and assured.

“I wanted womanly, sexy but not too available, a little zipped up,” a smiling Francisco Costa told FWD post show.

Costa’s emphasis was on tailoring throughout – his elongated egg-like silhouette using volume in a credible, exciting way. His layering was also plausible – like adding a cut-off Aran cable sweater over a snug bolero.

Made in the tightest color palette of anthracite, gray, black, dark spinach and ecru marble, the clothes had a sleek technical finish, adding panache.

The models did have some trouble navigating the catwalk on micro-point high heels, the only flaw in a slick production. It finished with a series of exact, trim cocktails embroidered with micro crystals adding just the right dosage of controlled sex appeal.

Backed up by a wonderful extended techno remix of Madonna, the mood soared in Klein’s show space on West 39th Street. We might have been smack in the center of the Garment District but the mood was the opening shot of a remake of "Grand Hotel." Where was John Barrymore to complete the scene?

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