Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Narciso Rodriguez: Futurist Patrician

Godfrey Deeny
February 06th, 2007 @ 10:26 PM

The fall 2007 collection Narciso Rodriguez presented Tuesday night marked something of a creative pause for a designer, who several times already this century was considered to have created the stellar show of the NY season. In a Chelsea show space, Rodriguez presented an elegant modernist statement, yet one were nothing looked terribly new.

Narciso probably cuts the best cocktail dresses this side of The Pond; narrow, high-waisted robes in minimalist fabrics that are not always what they seem. A really great sleek black pencil dress looked like tight raffia but was actually tweed; a beautiful silk dress on uber-walker Natasha Poly seemed to be topped in leather but was all made of silk.

Intriguing birch silk prints also made for some super elegant robes, and white boucle wool was sculpted into some great swinging jackets. Plus the designer did tweak his silhouette a tad, with echoes of Sixties Cardin, a designer whose influence was apparent in Marc Jacobs Monday night “homage” to Yves Saint Laurent.

Narciso Rodriguez is one of the few New York designers to show men’s and women’s looks together on the same catwalk, and his vision of them said as much sociologically as aesthetically.

Narciso dresses women as terribly chic patricians for an alluring future. That’s not to say that his clothes don’t look contemporary, but there’s a sense that whoever wears his fall collections is there to give orders in a Gattaca like flick. His men, on the other hand, don’t look they are on the way to any office soon; their role is to follow out the orders.

His men’s wear had mixed results. Rodriguez showed some great cashmere sweaters in contrasting color panels, with squared V-necks, but any men’s fashion editor will tell you it was the same trick Raf Simons invented for his Jil Sander debut a year ago.

In short, the collection had polish but ultimately disappointed, an impression that Narciso even appeared to acknowledge as he took his bow with a tepid smile.

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