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Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Milan - Jil Sander Digs for Metal

Godfrey Deeny
January 14th, 2007 @ 00:03 AM - Milan

We know the price of commodities has soared in recent years, but covering most everything in a metallic sheen in the Jil Sander men's collection shown Sunday, January 14 in Milan did not make this collection significantly more valuable.

The big idea of Sander's creative director Raf Simons for fall-winter 2007/2008 was using liquid silver and copper finishes on bags, barnstormer flight jackets, posh punk brothel creepers and closely woven pullovers. Simons also dreamed up some splendid weekend bags and trendy luggage with liquid silver and faded platinum hues, which are sure to be very influential.

But while novel and technologically ingenious, the collection, inspired by artist Anthony Gormly, was repetitive, albeit luxurious. Simons is a clever designer who cuts with genuine panache, but after three seasons at the helm at Sander he is beginning to repeat himself – not a great sign.

From his "clones of himself" model casting, short hair with fringes over the forehead, to the austere minimalism of the clothes, the whole proceedings look, well, not terribly new.

Simons' other innovation Sunday, the opening day of the five day Italian men's wear season in Milan, was playing about with chalk stripe, though the bright spark who wrote the press release for Sander decided, inaccurately, that these were all pinstripes. They were not. Some of these experimentations were rather cool – like the barely there window-pane check or spidery chalk stripe midnight blue three-quarters coats and finely tailored cashmere suits in micro chalk. Many were just dull.

With patent leather shoes and all the shiny fabrics, Simons made an unsual foray into the world of showy clothes. But far too often, this collection looked cloyingly familiar, which, in fashion, should never be the case.

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