Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Milan - Jil Sander Digs for Metal

Godfrey Deeny
January 14th, 2007 @ 00:03 AM - Milan

We know the price of commodities has soared in recent years, but covering most everything in a metallic sheen in the Jil Sander men's collection shown Sunday, January 14 in Milan did not make this collection significantly more valuable.

The big idea of Sander's creative director Raf Simons for fall-winter 2007/2008 was using liquid silver and copper finishes on bags, barnstormer flight jackets, posh punk brothel creepers and closely woven pullovers. Simons also dreamed up some splendid weekend bags and trendy luggage with liquid silver and faded platinum hues, which are sure to be very influential.

But while novel and technologically ingenious, the collection, inspired by artist Anthony Gormly, was repetitive, albeit luxurious. Simons is a clever designer who cuts with genuine panache, but after three seasons at the helm at Sander he is beginning to repeat himself – not a great sign.

From his "clones of himself" model casting, short hair with fringes over the forehead, to the austere minimalism of the clothes, the whole proceedings look, well, not terribly new.

Simons' other innovation Sunday, the opening day of the five day Italian men's wear season in Milan, was playing about with chalk stripe, though the bright spark who wrote the press release for Sander decided, inaccurately, that these were all pinstripes. They were not. Some of these experimentations were rather cool – like the barely there window-pane check or spidery chalk stripe midnight blue three-quarters coats and finely tailored cashmere suits in micro chalk. Many were just dull.

With patent leather shoes and all the shiny fabrics, Simons made an unsual foray into the world of showy clothes. But far too often, this collection looked cloyingly familiar, which, in fashion, should never be the case.

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