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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Miu Miu’s Underground Élan

Godfrey Deeny
October 04th, 2012 @ 09:30 AM - Paris

There is no such thing as an underground anymore, unless one is invited to the latest Miu Miu show, where Miuccia Prada’s demi monde vision led to the show with the newest attitude, and richest élan, of any this season.

Though not the last show on the final day Paris schedule, Miu Miu effectively brings to an end the four-week, 29-day, four-city season, which began in Manhattan on Sept. 5.

“I made an investigation, asked a lot of people, whether or not an underground exists anymore, and everyone told me it doesn’t!” laughed Signora Prada, as most people politely call her, after the show on Wednesday, Oct. 3.

The references to the anti-establishment world were clear throughout even if this was a decidedly posh collection in terms of materials and poise. So, we got luscious luxe fox stoles, but hippie tie-dyed so they were blotched and even stained.

Splendidly cut swing coats came in duchesse satin, except the fabric was all mashed up, almost as if the model had slept the night in the clothes. Plus a good third of the looks were in prints that were deliberately paint tarnished, in synch with the extraordinary soundtrack, where samples of Miles Davis featured the great jazz trumpeter slurring and smearing his notes.

And talk about a stunning setting, where Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas had installed a rambling series of cedar plywood bleachers, stairways and catwalk, which even traversed a polished auditorium in a massive modernist government building near the Trocadero.

There was a dark glory to the clothes, and a racy sense of style. Elaborate mini corsets or elongated bras centered many looks; most of the cast wore extended goatskin gloves; every ensemble had clusters of dark crystals, around the wrist or tied on to a coat’s back. Talk about underground goes uptown.

Though the cast featured a first-rate pick of the new generation of runway stars – all their hair was dried-up like scruffy East Village '80s punks, a clear expression of Prada’s key dichotomy, trashy grit meets arty posh.

After two decades, covering shows in fashion – an industry obsessed with youth – one cannot help noticing a change that comes over all young fashionistas when they begin to notice, admire and long to be one of the most successful women who sit in the front - and dream of having their self-assured style. Well, these Miu Miu clothes will be exactly what they want to wear to achieve that sweet fashion spot of gravitas with panache.


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