Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Yves Saint Laurent’s Viper Room Chic

Godfrey Deeny
October 01st, 2012 @ 4:22 PM - Paris

Nostalgia and rockin’ radicalism met in the debut Hedi Slimane women’s wear show for Yves Saint Laurent, a brilliantly staged performance that met with curiously muted applause.

With battered plywood floor, rough-hewn benches and enormous speakers lowered down from the ceiling the setting was a late night rock club. Though staged deep inside Europe’s most architecturally distinguished exhibition space, the Grand Palais of Paris, it felt like the Viper Room in Los Angeles, the city where Slimane has lived of late, and where he has moved the YSL design studio.

The ghost of Woodstock also wafted though the all-black box space, with models in massive hippie chic stovepipe hats, Indian squaw floor-length skirts, Navajo style pendants and hippie chic floral dresses.

Slimane did open the show, staged Mondy night, Oct. 1, with a quintet of tailored looks that recalled the men’s wear suits so many of his women fans began wearing when he designed Dior Homme. These all looked great, most especially a micro tailcoat meets jacket. However, he quickly changed gears, with the sort of outfits that recalled Californian alternative culture in the flower power era, i.e. precisely when Yves Saint Laurent was a revolutionary designer, who openly mocked bourgeois mores.

The show represented the end of a long, five-year exile from fashion for Slimane, who effectively walked out his previous job to begin a successful second career as a respected photographer of youth culture. He certainly sent out plenty of eye-catching merchandise in this show - shimmering boleros, wonderful mega bow satin blouses and a really natty mini trench jacket made in transparent lace. Several looks were extremely sheer – as Slimane let if all hang out. But a smart retailer will find plenty of cool options.

This mix of retro and reeved-up continued in the soundtrack, a truly inspiring remix and loop by Europe’s greatest electro duo, Daft Punk, of the legendary jangling blues cut “I Gotta Try You Girl,” from master bluesman Junior Kimbrough.

Nonetheless, in a season of metallic fabrics, twisted silhouettes and iridescent surfaces – it came across as a very dark vision of YSL. Which perhaps explains the strikingly low-key applause.

Practically the only person to give this spring 2013 collection a standing ovation was Pierre Berge, the former partner of Saint Laurent. Then again, Slimane did dedicate the show in his minimalist program notes “for Pierre.”
The 81-year-old businessman escorted in Valérie Trierweiler, France’s new “first lady” who sat next to Anna Wintour. The seat between them was left empty.

“Enfin, enfin!” squawked Pierre Berge, or “Finally, finally! They finally took the courage to appoint the obviously right candidate. They could have easily made another mistake!”

Adding to the enthusiasm, Diane Von Furstenberg told FWD: “I thought it was very Saint Laurent, though the Saint Laurent of my youth. But at least Hedi’s keeping true to the house’s DNA. More people should.”

A sense of restoration seeped through the event. A French citizen reclaiming YSL from an Italian designer, a show seeped in the early imagery of Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, and the remnants of the designer’s circle turning out in support.

Commented Clara Saint, Yves’ former press agent:
“I found it very true to Yves, which I liked very much. Though the crowd didn’t seem to buy into it. They hardly clapped!”

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