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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Gritty Geisha Prada

Godfrey Deeny
September 20th, 2012 @ 6:26 PM - Milan

Hard to imagine many beautiful - though latterly fallen on hard times - geishas as natural clients for Prada, but images of these fallen from grace beauties haunted the house’s catwalk in Milan today.

In a mesmerizing display, Miuccia Prada distilled some truly beautiful clothes and creations from these far eastern influences – a courtesan in boxing boots marching proudly, though wreathed with an almost palpable sense of dismay.

Though this was a spring 2013 collection for women it had a “Requiem for a Heavyweight” mood: from the metallic leather sock boxing boots to the Golden Gloves harsh ring lighting. The sense of past glories heightened in this show, staged Thursday, Sept. 20, by the deliberately dried out hair and overly rouged lips synonymous with faded beauty.

Which is what made this show such a great fashion experience – for despite the dark berries of decay, this was also fashion at its most opulent. Calico and duchess satin tunics, minis finished with high-tech flowers, sleek jet black Astrakhan coats and swirling stoles featuring scattered white rosettes – all anchored by Japanese platform shoes - collectively reeked elegance.

In terms of silhouette, it varied from the classic ladylike coats to a series of diagonally cut layered and sculpted heroine shapes to charming grandfather knitted underwear, topped with Evil Genius mink wraps. Before the show really kicked up, rising to a crescendo as the designer showed her instinctive understanding of cinematic wardrobe, and its key role of creating emotion and character though the very distinction of clothes.

Moreover, Prada the preeminent designer shoe brand of, well, all time, conjured up a particularly special experimental collection of footwear: slim boxer’s boots with strangely cool plastic spurs; Double Mac geta and futurist boots with mini compressors inserts. Talk about re-inventing a whole vernacular.

The house also ushered in a whole new stage set. It’s remarkable that in Milan where many huge luxury brands boast their own private show “theatres” – Armani, Versace, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana – only Prada reconfigures its space on a regular basis. All the rest just tweak a classic catwalk. Prada’s hyper cinematic scenery was a double rectangle runway under Dogme 95 style black columns. Perfect for this show, and with enough latitude to compliment other collections and ideas.

One left feeling honored to have witnessed this show; to have enjoyed the synchronization of fashionable aesthetics and rarefied cultural association. Fashion may well only be about selling clothes and accouterments to make people feel fleetingly more empowered and happy. But there is a moment at certain runway shows when you feel in the presence of great art – so beautiful and stimulating is the whole ensemble. This was one of those 12-minute instants of pure vision.

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