Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Electric Underground Lanvin

Godfrey Deeny
July 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM - Paris

Lanvin elevated its runway when presenting its latest menswear collection, even as it staged a striking turn of direction, from romantic gentility to edgy underground clubbing.

The show, staged Sunday, July 1, was held in the house's preferred location - a disused railway station in east Paris - though where normally Lanvin makes its catwalk on the concrete floor and builds bleachers for its audience, this season it raised up a high-tech, circuit-board style runway and keep all four rows of the audience on the same level.

The change in décor coincided with something of a U-turn in its style. Banished from this collection were its signature bow ties, frayed piping or faded hues. Instead, we got a nattily rugged, late-night approach.

Under the joint guidance of Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin, in the past five years, has become the bellwether collection in men's fashion, the one that influences high street chains worldwide, the show that sets the agenda, and best indicates how men will dress in the following year.

So for the future expect cool chaps to dress in a new athletic clubbing chic, in a look that is both formal yet funky.

High waist, multi-pleated gents pants paired mini tops made of second skin leather sleeveless biker jackets; classy double-breasted blazers with see-through mesh arms; formal fine wool suits subverted with edgy sandals. The must-have footwear for next spring is the Roman centurion meets water running open-toed sandal, and no one had better options than Lanvin.

"We elevated the runway, as it's a moment when we need to be elevated. It's about elevating our spirit and letting us fly," Elbaz told FWD post-show.

Even the fabrics got a work over as wool suitable for a suit was used to make blouses, while many jackets were glued together rather than sewn.

In Elbaz's words, it was all about "taking classiness and making it feel high tech. Or taking a high-tech parka and making it feel like a silk shirt."

The show also tapped into a huge new Paris trend - transparency. In a era when corporate values are very much under question in Europe, its been instructive to witness a Paris season almost completely devoid of brand logos, and featuring huge amounts of semi-sheer fabrics, showing off the interior construction of garments, being honest about their inner workings.

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