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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


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London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


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Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Ann Demeulemeester’s Ruffled Gentlemen Chic

Godfrey Deeny
June 29th, 2012 @ 5:51 PM - Paris

In menswear two great fashion capitals – that’s Milan and Paris – Milan may have the power brands and the price points, but when it comes to the poetry Paris wins hands down. Which is what made the Friday morning, June 29, show of Ann Demeulemeester so special, the sheer romantic beauty of the clothes, the sense that fashion when so finely executed can suggest a nobler, more charming world.

By Demeulemeester’s standards this was a relatively spare collection, devoid of the dangling strings, multiple accessories and accouterments with which she normally dresses her men. Yet, even edited down these were attention earning looks, their bohemian elegance requiring a certain self-confidence to wear them. The key element was the redingotes, the light elongated coat that defines the modern dandy. Any guy who does not have one in his wardrobe next spring cannot seriously claim to be well dressed.

Made in Atlas Mountain blue jacquard, or gray jute or a burnished orange satin they imparted an air of brainy romanticism. At the very moment that the most influential TV series for men in the world is the retro styled suit look of Mad Men, European designers are looking back a further century to the 19th century for inspiration. Gentlemen explorers or literary noblemen are their wellsprings, not the corporate world. Rarely has the distant between American and Continental European fashion seemed so great.

Demeulemeester combined her nobly worn looks with rocker floral print pants, Jacobin striped trousers and Samurai jackets, so the combination is always pretty out there, but majestically mixed. The audience of some 500 left the medieval convent where this show with staged, rather hushed in professional respect for the designer. She may never become a globally renowned name, but Demeulemeester will rightly be revered as a creator of a rarefied elegance, a look that manages to say something special about our longing for finer virtues. This was a fashion moment.

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