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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Raf Simons’ New Androgynous Chic

Godfrey Deeny
June 28th, 2012 @ 00:28 AM - Paris

Every so often a fashion show is as much a observation on other fashion shows, and indeed a commentary by a designer on his colleagues, which was very much the case at the latest catwalk performance by Raf Simons in Paris on Wednesday, June 27.

The target of Simons' visual discourse? Designers’ obsession these past few years with making men’s clothes out of women’s fabrics, and indeed techniques. So this event was as much a conceptual argument as much as a collection of clothes, though on both levels it worked extremely well. It was also a telling in-joke, seeing as Simons will make his first women’s haute couture in his debut for Christian Dior Tuesday next week in Paris.

Not that skirts and dresses crowded out this catwalk, but it was covered in feminine fabrics, while the cuts, darts and finish was, well, rather girly. Take the smartly cut redingotes that finished the show – at front clean wool, at back Alpine floral prints, of the sort one associates with teenage girls swimwear.

“I was thinking about how this whole trend has changed menswear and what that means for us all,” Simons told FWD after the show, staged in an industrial space near the Bastille.

“And I wanted to reassess my own beginnings. I began doing oversized T-Shirts, and I had more in this show, even if you call them dresses!” Simons added.

His first looks were all suits, though with shorts, and even these can splits, the sort one associates with a mini a racy gal would wear to a rave party. Simons used all sorts of waffle fabrics, again a material more often found in women’s blouses, yet though the origin was improbable, the look was cool and new.

The designer injected lots of sensitive colors – kissing pink, canary yellow – used in nylon trench coats and jackets, where again the lack of lapels and general length was feminine. Simons did offer one item that looked, well, just like a dress, one of a series of dramatic tops done in collaboration with Los Angles based artist Brian Calvin.

That blast of color made for a telling finale, and a telling blast on his comments about his fellow designers ladylike obsessions.

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