Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Burberry: Come Rain or Shine

Godfrey Deeny
June 23rd, 2012 @ 4:47 PM - Milan

Not all that glitters is just gold, at least not in this weekend’s runway show by Burberry, a triumphantly clever tour de force where shimmering turquoises and pinks or high-gloss metallic tangerine and burgundy glowed down the catwalk.

Times might be grim economically in Europe, but this was the highly optimistic collection, where the whole aesthetic was super hero dandy. From the Aegean blue metal silk trench-coats and MI5 shiny lime shirts to blown-up, almost comic book proportions on flight jackets and rather feminine silky scatter box print dusters, this was a celebratory statement.

Burberry’s chief creative office Christopher Bailey has turned this heritage label into Britain’s one huge global luxury brand, by referencing U.K. youth cults and style. What made this spring 2013 collection so great was that Bailey took the look somewhere radically new, re-imagining clubbing clothes as gallant chic.

“I like this idea of something serious, with gravitas and heritage, but with something really fun and light and decadent. Threading metal throughout the whole show, since I love that expression, come rain or shine. The whole world is going through a profound change in finance and power. But life is a short space of time, so we need to enjoy it too,” Bailey told FWD backstage in Milan on Saturday, June 23.

His tailoring – like spinning the zippered collar of a flight around 45 degrees - gave the garment a revolutionary haute couture look, and his novel, bubble-like proportions were audacious yet just plausible enough to never seem far-fetched.

“We altered the pitch of the bomber jacket and shortened the sleeves and twisted the sleeves. I screwed with the proportions,” Bailey added, as a mob of camera crews swirled around him.

Yet it was the gentlemanly glitz of this collection – lemon metal sandals, burgundy steel jerkins – that were the standouts, and sure to make this one of the most influential menswear shows in many seasons.

Instead of the latest riff on Cool Britannia, this was a new global travel gent, best expressed by the steely-hued leather bomber jackets in contrasting arms and torso that ended the show winning the designer an enormous cheer when he took his bow. A new direction for Burberry and a huge hit.

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