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Louis Vuitton's Accessories Express

Godfrey Deeny
March 07th, 2012 @ 11:55 AM - Paris

All aboard, the Louis Vuitton express is about to leave. In an exceptional setting - even for this extravagant house - a life-sized steam train pulled 50 yards across the tracks in a show tent built inside a courtyard of the Louvre on Wednesday, March 7. It bore the name, Louis Vuitton, from whose single carriage emerged two score of grandly dressed models, each accompanied by a porter, who carried several pieces of their luggage.

It was a neat piece of staging, not least because it meant Louis Vuitton's creative director Marc Jacobs could show well over 100 pieces of baggages - and bags, as we know, are the heart of Vuitton, the world's most profitable luxury brand.

"When the clock strikes 10 the train will pull into the station," read the program notes, though as it happened, the Vuitton special arrived at 10:05, so for once, this label's show - famous for its punctual start time - began a little late. Even so, well-heeled guests had a mighty scramble through heavy Paris morning traffic to make it in time. Many did not, clutching their tickets desperately outside in a fresh shower.

Those who missed the show, would not have seen that, like the steam train, it was a somewhat old fashioned collection, even if not quite archaic. For fall 2012, Jacobs sees women in Edwardian chic as nearly all his model passengers wore extended A-line coats over lengthy skirts and ankle revealing pants. Cut with large, splayed lapels, this selection of masculine tailoring, which varied from equestrian hacking jacket to courtly tails, was all finished with elaborately ornate metallic and mirror buttons. Eventually the mirrors and metal took over several of the finale coats, and the models - who all towered over the tiny uniformed staff - shone brilliantly as they marched down the platform.

The bags were a thoroughly enticing choice - from grained leather weekenders and cloth monogram carpet bags to graphic black checkered suitcases and russet hued totes that glistened just like the carefully aged platform. Indeed, if the show had any star it was actually the hats, an amazing assemblage of feathered cloches that looked a good deal more revolutionary than the clothes.

Later in the evening, Jacobs unveiled a new Louis Vuitton photography exhibition in the other end of the giant Louvre, a retrospective in the Musee des Art Decoratifs. It attracted thousands to the final major bash in the four city and 30-day international catwalk season for fall 2012 collections. And a smart reminder by Vuitton that business has never been better for this truly unique brand.

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