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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Chanel's Amethyst Empire

Godfrey Deeny
March 06th, 2012 @ 00:05 AM - Paris

From sea to earth, from one season to the next, Karl Lagerfeld took Chanel from an aquatic inspiration six months ago to the deepest core of the earth, with a fall 2012 collection staged on a lunar landscape featuring giant shards of crystal and amethyst.

Last September, the Chanel designer sent out his models on an ocean-bed, clutching sea-shell bags; this Tuesday morning, March 6, in Paris, they were galactic explorers in glistening dark-toned fashion, highlighted with lots of lime and purple touches.

Over a shiny, silicon pebble surface in the Grand Palais, done up with enormous violet hued walls, the models wafted by in anthracite and steely gray Chanel suits The very stalactite shapes informed the collection – like the wonderful glimmering courtly frock coats, that were finished with quartz buttons, or the dense wool boucle top coats that seemed ideal for the bitter western wind blowing down the Champs Elysees outside.

Also admirable were the avant garde pumps with mirror heels, whose tops were encrusted with raw crystal rocks, or the soft handbags, bejeweled with dark stones. Even the models eyebrows were covered in micro crystals, in a posh pre-historic touch.

Lagerfeld's other smart trick was pairing lace pants, or silver dust sprinkled leggings and slinky silk blouses, with more rugged shiny wool boucle swing jackets and sleek coats.

“Nothing is older than this. All these stalactites and crystals are zillions of years old. Which proves that nature is more modern than humans, because they make buildings like this, in these exact shapes. And these forms take millions of years to happen. This could be a modern city after an earth quake, Norman Foster could have built skyscrapers in them,” Lagerfeld told FWD, amid a swarm of camera crews and celebrities.

“I love amethyst, it's a good luck color. And it is also one of my favorite stones,” explained the designer, whose famed sense of personal dress sets trends. Today he appeared in violet gloves and matching corduroy courtier's tails.

“I'm a little boy in corduroy!” he laughed, before turning to pose with a gang of beaming Asian movie stars.

In a busy day for Chanel, Lagerfeld also celebrated the opening of a new boutique on Continental Europe's classiest shopping street, Avenue Montaigne.

Coming on the penultimate day of the four-city, four-week fashion season that began on an icy Wednesday in New York and will end in blustering rain showers in Paris tomorrow, the Chanel show was a reminder of the very real preeminence of this unique brand. No other runway event boasts as many devoted followers. Literally thousands of women fly in from scores of nations for this show, all of them wearing the latest fashion and accessories from Chanel – from head to toe. And the presentations, staged in no-expense splendor in the Grand Palais are arguably the industry's finest expressions of unadulterated luxury. In fashion terms, this is the greatest show on earth.

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