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Haider Ackermann’s Sculpted Chic

Something of a fashion triumph was achieved Saturday morning, March 3, in Paris when one of the industry's hottest new talents, Haider Ackermann, dramatically mounted to another level of sophistication with a very refined display of his curved grandiose chic.

Ackermann's shows became must-sees several years ago, so the presentation of his fall 2012 collection in Paris City Hall drew an elite pack of every important editor in town for the French pret-a-porter season.

A question had remained about the scope of Ackermann's talent; he cuts brilliantly, has an uncannily good sense of color and is a marvelous image maker, yet the very elaboration and complication of his designs was beginning to appear an impediment. There was a growing refrain that it was often hard to even work out how to put on his clothes.

Not anymore. The clothes he presented today, while dripping in drama, were entirely comprehensible and clearly far more commercial.

For fall, this Columbian-born, Dutch-raised designer wants women in courtly dress - surgically cut shantung boleros, medieval condottiere leather coats or biker jackets with padded tails. Something always ripples and curls in an Ackermann outfit, whether it's a leather peplum or twisting insect like extensions to leather coats or a twirling Obi belt. Though the contrast between his petal like jackets and his mega strict pencil pants has never been stronger.

Composed of mottled versions of mud, titanium, ochre and cooper, and staged with an almost religious solemnly, this more restrained version of Ackermann was a hit show and collection.

"I wanted to show that the clothes can be wearable and still be beautiful," the designer told FWD post show. You did, Sir, you did.

* Alexander McQueen: Scepter Chic * Jil Sander: Welcome to Surgical Chic		* Thom Browne Spring 2014 * Delpozo Spring 2014