Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
|
|
Haider Ackermann’s Sculpted Chic
Godfrey Deeny
March 03rd, 2012 @ 12:17 AM - Paris
Something of a fashion triumph was achieved Saturday morning, March 3, in Paris when one of the industry's hottest new talents, Haider Ackermann, dramatically mounted to another level of sophistication with a very refined display of his curved grandiose chic.
Ackermann's shows became must-sees several years ago, so the presentation of his fall 2012 collection in Paris City Hall drew an elite pack of every important editor in town for the French pret-a-porter season.
A question had remained about the scope of Ackermann's talent; he cuts brilliantly, has an uncannily good sense of color and is a marvelous image maker, yet the very elaboration and complication of his designs was beginning to appear an impediment. There was a growing refrain that it was often hard to even work out how to put on his clothes.
Not anymore. The clothes he presented today, while dripping in drama, were entirely comprehensible and clearly far more commercial.
For fall, this Columbian-born, Dutch-raised designer wants women in courtly dress - surgically cut shantung boleros, medieval condottiere leather coats or biker jackets with padded tails. Something always ripples and curls in an Ackermann outfit, whether it's a leather peplum or twisting insect like extensions to leather coats or a twirling Obi belt. Though the contrast between his petal like jackets and his mega strict pencil pants has never been stronger.
Composed of mottled versions of mud, titanium, ochre and cooper, and staged with an almost religious solemnly, this more restrained version of Ackermann was a hit show and collection.
"I wanted to show that the clothes can be wearable and still be beautiful," the designer told FWD post show. You did, Sir, you did.
|