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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Marni’s Charming Boyish Drama

Godfrey Deeny
February 26th, 2012 @ 1:34 PM - Milan

Graphic with endless juxtapositions of fabrics, moods and eras, the latest runway collection from the Milan fashion house of Marni was very surely the most modern fashion collection seen this season in Italy.

Modern in the sense that were one to place all the Milan collections in a time capsule and open them 50 years from now, these clothes from Marni would better represent our time than any other. They do so for two major reasons: first, because they encapsulate the current trends better than any other, and secondly because they more elegantly represent the dominant aesthetic ideas in fashion than any other show.

Take the biggest single trend on runways in New York and in Milan – the sheer volume of fur. Well, no one uses this material more subtly than Marni’s creative director Consuelo Castiglioni, who cut sherbet hued fox and candy hued minks almost as subtle armor, adding grandeur to graphic cocktail dresses or coats.

Marni’s clothes are sometimes described as posh hippie romantic, but for fall 2012 they were protective – featuring battlefield great coats, huge pockets and military belts.

Throughout, Castiglioni combined the noble with the banal – pink plastic laminated coats or brooches, paired with sturdy crepes or striking minks shaved and dyed into remarkable plaids designs.

“I like manly shapes, mannish tailoring. Because I like exaggerated proportions. Feminine but in a boyish shape. Something you borrow from your boyfriend. We did a lot of research on the fabrics, trying to put them together architecturally. But the starting point is always to make beautiful clothes,” Castiglioni told FWD in a crowded backstage.

Worn by models with large fringes – the key hair style on Milan’s runway – and pastel eye liner color coordinated with the clothes, the collection and show had an spacey yet tough mood. Anchored by Japanese style block sold sandals and high tech Art Deco heels, the collection was also right in synch with the major news in Italian fashion, the triumph of evocative drama.

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