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London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


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Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Bottega Veneta’s Tailored Grandeur

Godfrey Deeny
February 25th, 2012 @ 1:01 PM - Milan

Strict, sexy, stylish and overwhelmingly elegant, the latest collection from Bottega Veneta, staged Saturday, Feb. 25, in Milan will, without question, turn out to be one of the creative high points of the current European season.

Using tailoring so precise the clothes almost looked like they had been composed on an architect's computer, the whole collection looked brilliantly streamlined, granting each young lady on the catwalk a special sense of authority.

Moreover, by staining and smearing the expensive boucle wools, velvets and antique crepe, Bottega Veneta's creative director Tomas Maier imparted a snazzy arty quality to each look. So though formal in its tailoring, each outfit was also rather revolutionary in its finish.

"It felt right to make clothes closer to the body. Structured and with a slimmer waist, so I used fabrics that looked dense to the eye even if they were not," said Maier backstage.

The sense of depth was apparent in the deep dark hues of forest green, Pacific blue and maroon, whose smeared finished recalled aged stain glass windows.

Sent out with exact waxy chignons and deep purple lipstick, the models were certainly severe. Yet they also sizzled, even if there was absolutely nothing cheap about this fall 2012 collection. Far from it. Maier's addition of rock crystal cuffs, agate earrings, and multi-print corset belts all added the necessary gentile aplomb.

After the powerful tailored opening, the collection if anything only improved - with a series of cocktails embellished with shards of chiffon, dissected with bejeweled belts and accessorized with encrusted elbow belts or Mary Jane leather booties. And just when you thought it was all a tad dark, Maier zapped the mood with a slew of abstract expressionist velvet patchwork dresses that had a fabulous haute couture quality.

Maier also sent out loads of sure fired winner bags, notably excellent handbags with zigzag lacing and natty silver ergonomic clutches.

But the big news here were the clothes and Maier's most artily sensual statement of modern tailoring so far in his decade at BV. In other words, a sure fired fashion home run.

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