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Fendi’s Dramatic Stingray Twist

There's a major new trend in fashion this season. It is called drama. And few collections, or shows, have been more dramatic than the latest runway display by Fendi - a bravura moment of eye-popping technique, cunning cutting, excellent accessories and colorful, well, drama.

The design duo of Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi telegraphed their intentions with the invitation, runway and backdrop, a photographic rendition of stingray, the fish that appeared in art hostess breast-plates and boxing champion belts that truncated at half the looks in this memorable fall 2012 show, staged Thursday, Feb. 23, in Milan.

Above it was the daring contrast of noble materials that made this show so particularly memorable: from pony skin plenipotentiary coats with fox fur collars or duchesse satin cocktail dresses worn under shaved astrakhan stoles.

Moreover, this was the most hyper-coordinated of any Fendi show in many seasons, from the deep forest green mini cape outfits anchored by matching Fred Astaire spats in taiga green. Updated highwayman coats or a truly stunning antelope and baby lamb Levantine princess skirt and mini frack all looked sensational.

"I started with stingray, which is very stiff so I used it on belts, on worn stockings and on handbags. And I ended with photos of tiny orchids," explained Lagerfeld, dressed in a pair of pants he designed for Internet retail giant, Net-a-Porter, composed of black profile logos of himself.

"That's because I am the only person who can wear his face on his legs," cracked Lagerfeld, whose orchid imagery was used on theatrically colored fox and sable coats.

At times, the adventurous cutting did get a tad carried away, as a bustle too many protruded from the back. Which meant the look had real punch on a six-foot tall model but would be harder for a more normal physique to pull off.

Worn on models whose hair was braided like ancient Greek warrior goddesses, the clothes had exact, razor sharp modernist lines. And there was nothing ancient about their accessories. The must-have ideas were a brilliant selection of high-heel buttoned-up spats that came in gutsy mixes of galuchat, crocodile, flannel and fur. These were coupled and occasionally matched by a series of very natty iPad bags, at a show where many front-row editors used the same technology to record the models.

"My iPad is my favorite object. I even get annoyed when I forget to bring it to restaurants, so I thought every woman needs an iPad bag, reinforced but chic," said Fendi, after receiving a thunderous burst of applause with Lagerfeld.

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