Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Christopher Kane’s Contrasting Authority

Godfrey Deeny
February 20th, 2012 @ 2:04 PM - London

Talk about being on message. From his invitation, to his runway carpet to his composite fabric cocktail dresses, the U.K.'s most revolutionary designer, Christopher Kane, honed his most polished aesthetic statement to date. Call it Posh Purple Power.

Or, maybe, punchy, far from languid lilac - the shade that appeared on all three aforementioned surfaces in a rather dramatic show staged in London's financial district, The City, on Monday, Feb. 20.

In a very real sense, in this fall 2012 collection, the Glasgow, Scotland-born Kane finally grew up. Kane has for too long been regarded as Europe's best "young" designer. Let's delete the youthful adjective from that from now on, seeing as Kane is now very much making clothes more targeted to cool career ladies than crafty clubbers.

"Moire with patent leather; mink with fox fur; chain mail with 3D embroidery," said Kane backstage, explaining the hyper sense of contrast that drove this show. Before then, adding that the collection's initial spark came from the imagery of photographer Joseph Szabo.

Kane did riff on some of his signature touches - hyper print flowers, teen comics graphics, but took the whole package somewhere new with alluring opening pinstripe motifs - most especially black mink black variants paired with harlequin pants, or coated dusters with modest minis. But it all felt new, and more dramatic, rather like the photography of Szabo, whose close-up black-and-white photos of American youth in the '70s were famed for their powerful sense of opposing surfaces.

Throughout, Kane dissected more or less everything with tubular leather trim, belts, ties and wraps, toughening up mesh over jacquard cocktails that came in fire engine red or imperil purple. Majorly bright combinations of blood red or fuchsia with black or anthracite added punch to a collection that will be widely imitated this coming autumn.

Kane might be long from being household name, but among fashion insiders he is regarded as a highly important designer, respected not just for the brilliance of his designs but also for his reach, impact and innovation. This, arguably, may not have been Kane's greatest collection, but it was surely his most authoritative. His time is now.

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