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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Michael Kors' Gutsy Modern Glamour

Godfrey Deeny
February 15th, 2012 @ 10:01 AM - New York

What a difference a $100 million or more makes. The Michael Kors mega roll continued Wednesday, Feb. 15, in New York's Lincoln Center, with a brilliant fashion dissertation on hyper chic American sportswear by the designer, a show that deservedly won him a thunderous applause when he took his full tour of the catwalk.

An ode to sophisticated eye-catching style, this fall 2012 collection worked from the dramatic cashgora blanket coat opener to the final trio of uber beaded floor hugging - who is going to be the lucky actress wear them - Oscar red carpet stunners.

Kors, whose triumphant stock market launch has made him the envy of many colleagues, might only employ classic North American references - buffalo checks, bold tartans, Rocky Mountain plaids and rugged herring-bones - but his sense of cut and self-assured taste are all so in the zone that he makes everything look fresh, and charmingly new.

He had a whole series of outlandishly grand fur ideas - from crimson fox attention-magnate stadium coats to a really knock-out platinum fox vest, worn over the tiniest of slip dresses. They were so good precisely because Kors always managed to stay on just the right-side of too much.

"I was thinking about both the Thirties and the Nineties. Because when was the first time glamour really appeared? The Thirties, with people like Clark Gable and Carole Lombard; and I linked that to the urban glamour of the Nineties - John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette. That's where I was, between those two ideas," a well-tanned Kors explained to FWD backstage after the show.

Plus, Kors mingled in some great menswear - shaggy herring-bone crombies, mega tartan alpaca redingotes or fringed alpaca sweaters for really photogenic skiing moments.

"Truth is I am terrible skier. I am much better inside the lodge, which I suppose is what the stretch flannel pants are all about," the designer laughed.

Let's also note this. Some European critics still regard Kors as merely classic American sportswear, but they are wrong. His own well-tuned sense of self-editing means he wants, above all, to give women moments of delightful glamour - not intimidation - when they pull his clothes out of their wardrobes. There was a telling moment when a model appeared in a stunning herringbone mohair dress that morphed into a feathered fantasy below the hips - the sort of garment a top Paris couture atelier would be extremely proud to produce. It was Kors' clever way of reminding the audience that he can play the couture game as well as anyone, but his goal is something else - to distill a certain magnificence into modern New York fashion, devoid of pretension, blessed with panache, and all on his own terms. Today he did all that with a bases loaded fashion home run.

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