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.

Christian Dior's Transparent New Look

Godfrey Deeny
January 23rd, 2012 @ 00:20 AM - Paris

We got a gauzy and very glamorous moment at Christian Dior Monday, Jan. 23, at the opening first major spring 2012 haute couture show in the Paris season, where the house's couturier Bill Gaytten referenced the founder's New Look, albeit with an audacious new sense of the revealing.

Flared skirts, blouses nipped at the waist and lots of big bows at the waistline all recalled Monsieur's Dior's classical recipe, especially as the collection was staged in the house's historic headquarters on Paris' avenue Montaigne, where the founder first launched the New Look back in 1947. The choice of large scale hound's tooth prints, evocatively embroidered flounce skirts and some hyper refined chiffon high heels added to the classical mood.

Skirts cut to the knee with small vents, curvy shantung blouses and beautifully made to-the-elbow gloves all evoked a half century ago, but Gaytten was smart enough to take it all somewhere new with his gutsy see-through approach.

“Transparency, letting people see the wonderful construction of these clothes. It is such a pity to hide that, why bother?” said Gaytten backstage.

Underwear, cami knickers, brassieres and the occasional breast all peeked through the organza skirts and tops, though so subtle was the work that it never looked cheap, just full on chic.

Gaytten also wowed with some thoroughly snazzy wide-hipped, wide-shouldered and impossibly small-waisted crocodile jackets, and with some neatly racy cocktail dresses, in particular several in beige with off-centered rouching. Not all his evening looks worked – some were on the wrong side of familiar – though Gaytten did end with punchy rippling, multi-layered crinolines.

However the abiding memory of this show was the sheer sauciness served up by Gaytten, who was appointed as a temporary successor last March to disgraced John Galliano. There have been multiple rumors of a permanent successor since then; there was even a fresh rumor at today's show. But Gaytten has nonetheless in a busy 10 months managed to notch up a half dozen runway shows for both the Dior and Galliano brands. Not bad going for a replacement pinch-hitter. We call that grace under pressure, which is how Ernest Hemingway defined guts; which are what Gaytten has in abundance.

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