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.

Lanvin's Revolutionary Sporting Chic

Godfrey Deeny
January 22nd, 2012 @ 1:00 PM - Paris

Talk about a revolutionary fashion moment at Lanvin. They say you cannot invent much anymore in menswear, that the key is all about tweaking details. Well, the latest menswear collection from the house of Lanvin made a mockery of all that - so bold was its silhouette, so striking its mix of materials, so dramatic its sense of making truly new clothes for today.

Between them, Lanvin's creative director Alber Elbaz and men's designer Lucas Ossendrijver managed to invent a new form of stapled seaming, a radical new lapel and collar shape, a compelling futurist boxing sneaker and even a whole new garment.

Yet no matter how much out there the Lanvin man can be, dressing in clothes made of what are essentially women's haute couture fabrics used in inflated silhouettes, Elbaz and Ossendrijver are also working on perfecting certain classic looks. Like their thoroughly new American Air Force bomber jacket meets long tautly tailored coat in moleskin. This bomber coat has been in their repertoire for several seasons now and marks the pair's uncanny ability to meld men's couture with cool fashion.

They even mixed up two other styles again in a minimalist Perfecto that managed to look more like a downhill racer's jacket than bikers' clothing.

Throughout this fall 2012 collection, couture met active - from chic laser cut felt coats and theatrical briefcases to magnificent dimpled world champion boxing boots to fencing shirts. Moreover, the Lanvin man will also wear super-hero coats over a new flared pants that said both matinee idol and club goer at the same time.

The show, staged in Hall Freyssinet, a decayed old industrial railway station, was the best presented in Paris - a mammoth faux sanded runway, live grand pianist and beautiful rose and smeared graffiti entrance which read out the event's exact time - Sunday 22 January 2012 11h00.

"It's piano and techno music playing together; its graffiti but with roses. It's not about modern it's about relevance; suits that don't make you look like your grandfather; clothes for a generation that does sport, Internet and Facebook. It's not about uniforms. It's not about the end of the world, it's about optimism," Elbaz told FWD backstage.

Clearly today, many smart designers understand that men's fashion needs to connect the street with real fashion to make a relevant statement, but nowhere is the marriage happier than at Lanvin. Especially in this triumphant show - which earned its creators the biggest cheer of the Continental season.

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