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.

Ann Demeulemeester's Sensitive Trend Setting

Godfrey Deeny
January 21st, 2012 @ 00:33 AM - Paris

Her name might be difficult to spell but her influence on fashion is incontestable, and the latest ideas in the men's collection by Ann Demeulemeester, presented Saturday, Jan. 21, in Paris, will ripple thorough the industry too.

For fall 2012, Demeulemeester wants men in felt wool frock coats or morning dress tails, streaked with printed stalagmite shapes; all this worn over dip-dyed infantry boots. But what sets apart Demeulemeester is not so much her mix of ideas but the way she fuses epochs and cultures to dream up new shapes. Precisely because she can cut a Sicilian nobleman's frack with a Confederate army officer's elongated, buttoned lapel makes Demeulemeester such a special talent.

Her clothes also elicit emotion, even if that's sometimes by virtue of their unlikely theatricality. Many of the models wore skirts or cable wool dresses in this show, which not many men will do in real life. But the Belgium designer's technique should not be underestimated. In a brilliant duet, Demeulemeester first sent out a white tuxedo that morphed into a broken pattern art deco design below the armpits before inverting the idea in the succeeding Edwardian coat. Plus, her dip dyed bovver boots will probably now spark a huge street trend too.

Underlining her impact, the very styling tricks that Demeulemeester first developed now turn up on scores of catwalks. Take her signature feather accessories for guys, which were suddenly echoed in this season's Louie Vuitton menswear catwalk display.

"I wanted strong yet sensitive, and with an injection of light at the finish," Demeulemeester said, referring to a trio of silk radzimir coats at the finale that came in the brightest of turquoises. A new departure for this designer and a fresh lead that other colleagues will surely follow, for Demeulemeester is a path-breaking and trend-setting designer, a distinction she admirably achieved very much on her own terms.

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