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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Gucci's Poetically Fallen Angels

Godfrey Deeny
January 16th, 2012 @ 10:52 AM - Paris

Poetry is not traditionally the best paid of trades, though poets were certainly dressed as the chicest of success stories in the fall 2012 menswear collection of Gucci, staged Monday, Jan. 16 in Milan.

Inspired by French writer Arthur Rimbaud, and in particular Leonardo DiCaprio's interpretation of the absinthe-drinking "poete audit" in the movie "Total Eclipse," the collection was a pretty masterful display of Gucci craftmanship and artisanal skills from the subtly decayed paisley fabric velvet weekend bags to some brilliantly made boots - composed of lacquered leather with reptile inserts and trim.

“I wanted something decadent, just like a 19th century poet,” smiled Gucci creative director Frida Giannini backstage after this path-breaking take on men's fashion. Giannini is clearly obsessed with the new; right the way to her soundtrack that featured cuts from the yet-to-be-released latest album from French cult band Air.

The collections in Milan has also been all about a renewed obsession with fur, ideal considering that temperatures in the Italian fashion capital have fallen below zero every night of the season. The stand-out Gucci look was an ideally dramatic car coat – beaver on the outside, astrakhan in the interior. Talk about cool billionaire's opulence.

Another key Milan trend is faux muddied materials – in Gucci's case these came in faded paisley pants and jackets, or in some really excellent romantic rocker shearling bomber jackets. The designer's choice of a finale was also telling, dandy tuxedos made in darkest velvet or dramatic pony skin, the latter laser cut into jacquard paisley patterns. Gucci will always be a major accessories destination, and Giannini got them right, and just the right side revolutionary, with travel bags in an antique map patterns, or enlarged doctor's briefcases in vernis crocodile.

Moreover, the tormented dark souls of the poets were echoed in the depth of night color palette. Gucci for fall 2012 is all about deep burgundy, earthy green and an almost smeared grey.

“I wanted decadent, fallen angles - chic yet effortless,” added Giannini, mentioning Oscar Wilde and the indulgent aristocracy that populated Luchino Visconti movies.

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