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Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Dolce & Gabbana: Bullion, Cashmere and Pajamas

Godfrey Deeny
January 14th, 2012 @ 12:07 AM - Milan

If you really wanted to get away from the global recession and economic blues then your best destination this month is surely a runway show by Dolce& Gabbana.

In their fall 2012 men's collection shown on Saturday, Jan. 14, the Sicilian duo went back to their roots on the Mediterranean island sending out a hyper polished, ornately finished take on modern gentlemen's attire. The result was a clever meeting of bullion – metallic braid typically seen on regimental gear – strict yet dashing tailoring and the pair's latest injection of sex and sass.

Much of this impressive collection looked like couture for men, so finely hand-made, so opulently finished. Underling the uptown mood – a score of waiters in tails and white tie served champagne in English style open glasses – all very Downtown Abbey. Plus, the show opened with several grandly chic capes, a Sicilian version known as a Tistera, based on an original design created by Domenico Dolce's tailor father.

It was very much country house England meets Sicilian aristocracy with exact two-button, deep gorge suits in Prince of Wales or herringbone wools.

The show marked the first season since the Sicilian design duo had discontinued their junior D&G label, to concentrate on their signature collection. Clearly targeting the up-market, the real star of this show was a string of baroque embroideries inspired by the church interiors of the designers' youth. These curlycue, twisting and spidery designs exploded all across battered spats and country boots, funky cable sweaters and patrician cashmere topcoats – modern urban nobility at his most extravagant.

Staged in their custom-made space in central Milan, the show also reminded the audience of some 800 that Dolce & Gabbana have the guts to stage no-holds barred collections. So the baroque fantasies also riffed over thick wool shooting jackets, cutaway riding dusters and racy rocker bomber jackets. Their shinny curling patterns a beautiful contrast with the palette of deep green, faded camel and darkest bordeaux. That final colored starred in several rococo velvet smoking jackets, paired with raffish panache over silk pajama pants.

And if one had any doubt about the high-class mood that is sweeping Continental fashion then this design duo left nobody in any doubt . They attired all their models in bow ties and gentleman's astrakhan collared coats in a dramatic finale.

Class is what will count in this fall's men's wardrobe.

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