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.

Giambattista Valli's Memorable Memories

Godfrey Deeny
October 03rd, 2011 @ 1:39 PM - Paris

Ladylike grace but with a mysterious twist was what the latest collection by Italian-born, but Paris-based designer Giambattista Valli was all about, a contrasting fabric caravanserai that was classy and arty in equal parts.

Valli is the author of a new patrician style, one where the ruling class ladies actually have careers yet want to look chicly unflustered wherever they go. His spring 2012 collection, shown Monday, Oct. 3 in Paris, referenced all sorts of vacation destinations but the resulting clothes all seemed destined to attend some very exclusive events.

"It was about the warm memories of vacation, the voyages with friends, either to Kenya, Ibiza or Mykonos," said Valli backstage after the show.

Zebra prints of satin jackets and shaggy swing coats suggested tony colonial East African hill farms, fish skins and silvery bands hinted at Mediterranean resorts and goddess metallic bracelets evoked exotic Aegean islands. Taken together they recalled hot lazy days and languid evenings, which did not seemed so far fetched given the current heat wave Paris is enjoying.

What worked best were padded jacquard mini kilts topped by glamorous metallic hued tunics or movie star palsy catsuits. Exotic and shiny, these were all were modernist and sleek.

Valli also came up with great new accessories - especially twisting snake arm bands, one of which fell off an embarrassed model as she made her entrance on to the high-tech catwalk lit underneath with micro circuit board lights.

Valli's fabric mixes were at times a tall order - using horizontal bands of kicking fabrics, upholstery materials, perforated cottons, shimmering jacquards lace and furs is certainly ingenuous but quite possibly too attention seeking for the average fashionable lady.

Plus, while the clothes were very pretty they were a tad too similar so the show never really reached a pinnacle, but faded out without drama. So even if this was a thoroughly well-judged statement of modern chic, it was not quite a great collection, nor a great show.

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