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Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Givenchy Catches The Perfect Wave

Godfrey Deeny
October 02nd, 2011 @ 3:34 PM - Paris

The hottest show in fashion today is without a doubt Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, whose singular tender tough aesthetic, fertile imagination, revolutionary techniques and frankly elitist take on chic put him ahead of the pack.

Givenchy is a demanding wear under Tisci, requiring a svelte figure and a brave approach to fashion but for those with the courage and style it's a brilliant aesthetic statement. His is a new aquatic chic, where silhouettes and shapes evoke the sinuosity and independence of creatures from the ocean's depths.

He opened and closed with two of the three biggest models in the world - Natalia Vodianova and Giselle Bundchen - both of them clearly delighted to be in the show. And his front-row was a brilliant mixture of fashion aristocracy, hipster French actresses, Hollywood It Gals, superstar soul singers and every editor, critic or stylist of note, making it somehow the coolest gathering anywhere in the four week and four city fashion season of some 400 runways shows.

Tisci cut all sorts of organic shapes in this spring 2012 collection, shown in Paris on Sunday, Oct. 2, including curly mermaids' tails and audacious algae twists, so the look was certainly complicated, but the results were often mesmerizing. No matter what classical garment he touched - frock coats, cocktail dresses or tuxedos - he reinvented them with submariner panache. And as the models walked super fast, they seemed like deep water creatures suddenly speeding away in a nature documentary, especially a beautiful trio of silver layered silver chiffon sequins.

Take his layered white cotton dresses whose arch ribbon designed mimicked fish anatomy, or the undulating multiple lapel jackets whose waving movement as the model's walked suggested a tail fin twisting away.

The collection was quite literally aquatic - with hand-painted seawolf, tuxedos in stingray and sharkskin skirts. And if the odd individual item looked a bit forbidding, the ensemble was magnificent. So the finale, where the gals walked in rapid tight formation was a veritable triumph, the applause was thundering - one of the moments when the audience almost has a collective frisson of delight.

Besides making beautiful and insurrectionary clothes, Tisci is important for two other reasons. Firstly, because he now leads the most important trend in contemporary fashion, the combination of street attitude with couture quality finish and style. And, secondly, because Tisci has achieved this position very much on his own terms and without the support of much of the fashion establishment, namely the industry's fashion critics.

It's true that Givenchy is a company within LVMH, the world's biggest luxury goods conglomerate with profits last year of just over 3 billion euros, or $4 billion, on sales of 20.32 billion euros, or some $27 billion, so this is not a starving artist. Yet even if he leads and determines fashion trends, Tisci remains something an outsider. Since he took over at Givenchy in 2005, few of the major established critics have lauded him with superlatives, major department stores did not rush to place mega orders and many magazines, especially in America, were slow to embrace his aesthetic.

However, after producing the most accomplished haute couture collection in Paris this July, he distilled down many of its romantic, ethereal and saintly themes into great ready-to-wear designs in this important show.

Made in pastels, faded algae, Atlantic beach beige, bone, shiny black and pink - the color of the season - and accessoried, but of course, with oversized shark's tooth pendants in silver, this was a great fashion moment.

Talk about setting the agenda; Tisci is the new Neptune of fashion.

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