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.

Haider Ackermann's Byronic Beauties

Godfrey Deeny
October 01st, 2011 @ 12:25 AM - Paris

Can we please file away as misplaced, somewhat churlish and inaccurate the notion that Haider Ackermann - still pretty much the coming star designer of the Paris scene - is some sort of one-trick pony. For given the spring 2012 collection that he showed on Saturday, Oct. 1, in Paris, Ackermann has plenty of ammo in his arsenal, most especially a sartorial slickness and a tailoring talent that was a real pleasure to see in this show.

His opening trio declared his intent - three hyper exotic pants suits, cut with his cinematic style, and with a precision a surgeon could admire. Tuxedo jackets with razor sharp lapels, sail shaped pants nipped and upturned at the ankle, they had grandeur and sexiness in equal measure. Made of shiny taffeta in pewter, violet and burgundy, they composed one of those moments which were more about the designer making a statement about himself than about fashion.

Ackermann has been an acclaimed designer for nearly a half decade, anointed by Karl Lagerfeld no less as the man who could eventually succeed him at Chanel. But while he has been showered in praise, there was an underlying opinion that even if his fashion was beautiful, it was a tad to difficult to wear and, more relevantly, combine with anything else. This show should dispel that view.

"Of course!" responded the Ackermann when FWD asked whether he had purposely made a more approachable collection. "With a Bryonic beauty in mind," he added. And there was unquestionably a heroic quality to these clothes, even if the designer did include much of his risque, breast revealing preferences - from see through mesh tops to twisted shards of fabric spun into huge bows and petals under officer's mess jackets.

But above all it was the tailoring which counted - most cleverly using abstract Rajasthan checks. It's a standard tale among stylists of magazine shoots that Ackermann's clothes look great but often take a half hour to put on, so complicated is their construction. This lesson in dandified tailoring marked a new stage in the designer's career, and proof of his multi-faceted talent.

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