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.

Marni's Arty Fragility

Godfrey Deeny
September 25th, 2011 @ 10:23 AM - Milan

There can be few greater image-makers in fashion that Consuelo Castiglioni, the designer of Marni, whose latest collection with its graphic experimentation, unlikely mix of materials and overall sense of modern gentility made for a special stylistic experience.

Yet the layers of flared tops, skirts and dresses all made of somewhat unlikely summertime fabrics - intarsia leather, for example - meant this spring collection at times came accross as more beautiful that wearable. Still, the sense of fashion adventure, excellence of execution and joy at the unexpected made this show on Sunday, Sept. 25, a revolutionary one. Most especialy so in a Milan season where the biggest single trend is certainly nostalgia for the 1920s, probably the last decade in which the distrubution of wealth was so lop-sided in favor of the very rich.

"It was about purity and innocence, but not meant to be weak. About women being elegant, yet also strong," explained the retiring designer. In a profession were a big ego is regarded as an absolute requirement for any deisgner, Castiglioni is all the more charming for her understated manner and almost timid voice.

Her's is a house on a roll. Marni has just signed a long-term license with Estee Lauder to create a signature scent next year.

Her very modesty is in stark contrast to the edginess of Marni collections, and certainly of this spring 2012 collection, which opened with flared summer frocks in canary yellows and kissing pinks, before suddenly changing gears halfway through the show.

The designer's first wacky trick were abstract blotch tunics and dresses in shiny ensembles of shaggy fabric and plastic finish.

Marni was all about graphics this season, especially huge, Futurist circle style earrings and designs that also appeared in layered lambskin looks. The graphics were at their strongest with Art Deco vests made of shards of plastic snow crystals in contrasting colors.

This may not have been the greatest Marni show of the last few years, but its unexpected and contrasting lettering and sheer novelty of vision made it nonetheless a memorable mooment in Milan fashion week.

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