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Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Pucci's Gypsy Ball and After Party

Godfrey Deeny
September 24th, 2011 @ 8:07 PM - Milan

If there is any brand that has enjoyed a remarkable turnaround in the past three years it is without a doubt Emilio Pucci, the Florentine label that has become the model's favorite show to walk in during the Milan season.

It's evident that in Milan the huge ad budgets of fashion houses and the major runway shows mean that all the world's major models congregate on the Italian fashion capital for fashion week. And these young women are so beautiful that a dish cloth would probably look good on them. Yet it's telling and revealing when they obviously enjoy wearing the clothes, as they did in this Bridgette Bardot inspired collection that recalled the haute hippie chic of St Tropez in its heyday, from the sunset cocktails to the Mediterranean villa boudoirs.

A half decade ago, Pucci was a house mired in referential reinterpretations of its famous prints, a brand doomed to be seen as a seaside label for a few tony resorts. Now, under Peter Dundas it's a trendsetting house whose exuberant take on sexy glamour has won a whole new following among sophisticated shoppers and the cooler members of the red carpet elite.

Dundas opened this spring 2012 collection with a whole lusty Latin contessa series - big billowing, floor-length skirts in lace prints and jumbled summery imagery worn puckered bustiers, shards of fabrics and ribbons falling from the girls arms.

Handkerchief dresses in deft mixed-media prints, perforated fiery red leather jackets and floating chiffon cabanas all looked great. The Norwegian-born designer also threw in a few vampish, yellow crocheted cocktails into which the models looked as they been poured, and a jangling abstract print beaded dress that was a real head turner.

In truth, these are clothes that require a pretty trim figure and are pretty darned provocative, which is exactly why the models looked so happy in this collection. A finale featuring semi-sheer lace columns with completely exposed backs and a devilishly sexy black lace sweeping skirt worn with a mini corset was blatantly provocative, yet all the better for it.

"In a sense it was returning to my first collection fot Pucci. This was my sixth. It was about capturing the beautiful prints of the archives while taking the Pucci girl on a new voyage," Dundas told FWD after the show.

Since Dundas dressed one of the models of the moment - Anja Rubik - at her wedding this summer, he is in a model friendly groove. His Pucci is the new Balmain of the fashion firmament, meaning sizzling sexy clothes that make girls want to take their outfits of the runway and off on a hot date. No wonder this house rocks.

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