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.

Versace's Sizzling Seaside Style

Godfrey Deeny
September 23rd, 2011 @ 5:47 PM - Milan

Collecting seashells might be most people's idea of an innocent pastime, but gathered together in the latest collection by Donatella Versace it led to a sizzling fashion collection, one that marked a new élan in this storied house.

Seashells, starfish and seahorses all floated across snazzily cut neoprene suits cut with a surgeon-like scalpel, or flirty chiffon plisse mini cocktails that had class and sass in equal doses.

Curly crustacean shapes used in leather straps gave perspex platform wedges great allure, anchoring an all-white studded leather bomber jacket and mini skirt opening of the show, presented Friday evening, Sept. 23.

A racy lemon and lime posh rocker cocktail moment keep the pulse beating in this show, staged in the garden of Versace's neoclassical palazzo headquarters in central Milan.

Versace's red carpeted looks also took to the ocean with couture quality columns whose shoulder straps and seams featured silvery crystal sea creatures.

The collection also witnessed the return of big Charlie's Angels hair, all billowy and blonde, courtesy of some great work by stylist Guido Palau; and of a healthy fresh air style of makeup by artist Pat McGrath.

If this collection had any weaknesses it was perhaps the repetition, as too many aquatic images were repeated in different looks. However, after all the seaside chic, the show did end in triumph - its best moment was a quintet of all black dresses, a Roman empress meets modern society bombshell combo that brought the tightly-edited show to a great climax.

No wonder the applause-meter went off the scale when Versace took her bow, a long perambulation around the twisting illuminated catwalk.

"I had to practice to take that long a walk," Versace said with a laugh after the show, as a huge pack of editors queued to pay homage after enjoying this spring 2012 collection - seaside cool at its sexiest.

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