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.

Etro's Minimalist Jazz Age Cool

Godfrey Deeny
September 23rd, 2011 @ 00:20 AM - Milan

Etro, arguably the Italian luxury label most synonymous with prints, staged a radical shift in direction this week in Milan, sending out a collection that was all about clean graphics and reinventing the Jazz Age in a minimalist manner.

If Etro has any signature print it is almost certainly paisley, a style that ripples through the house's men's and women's collections every season. It did again in this spring 2012 ready-to-wear collection staged Friday, Sept. 23, in the label's via Piranesi show space, though in the most reduced way possible.

"You know the curly, twisting way paisley looks. I love that but this season I wanted it very, very simple. So simple, it ended up looking like a bone, a paisley bone," explained the house's women's creative director, Veronica Etro.

Backed up by Jazz Age trumpet tunes and Italian versions of classic torch tunes, this show recalled the Roaring Twenties from the opening looks - shortened nightclub dresses redolent of the Cotton Club and high class dames in a late night speakeasy. However, the designer updated the silhouette smartly for our decade with an above the knee silhouette, higher waist and slim arms. Moreover, by playing around with the stain glass imagery of the era, and riffing through the whole graphic quality of Art Deco, Etro injected a classy individuality into the whole collection.

This show marked a return to more formal attire on Milan runways, a nostalgia for a time when women liked to get a lot more dressed up, especially for evening.

"There's a desire for elegance again. Yet what I loved about the '20s was not just the elegance, but also the eccentricity," said Etro, who revealed that she had began researching the period by watching old Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers musicals.

Dresses that were first printed and then plissed, florid stenciling and dramatic African graphics all made this a great collection for the house of Etro. Plus a first rate staging and astute styling that kept the hyper colors and prints of Etro in check helped to make this one of the house's finest fashion statements in many seasons.

Welcome to the new eccentric elegance.


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