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Fendi's Existentialist Chic

Godfrey Deeny
September 22nd, 2011 @ 1:13 PM - Milan

Though the clothes in the latest collection from Fendi had a timeless quality with their graphic purity and cerebral nonchalance, one could not help describing the look as existentialist, given its brainy, linear cool.

After two weeks of picnic clothes in collections in New York and London, all seemingly designed to help women forget the recession, it was striking to see this spring 2012 collection, with its grown up sensibility and sense of polished achievement.

Staged Thursday, Sept. 22, on a black and white catwalk with a fan like temperature gauge as a backdrop and an invitation in the same graphic style, the show opened with lots of symmetrical stripe ideas, from flared below the waist cocktails to beach wind-breaker stripe swing jackets to precisely perforated blousons.

The linear quality was apparent throughout with some brilliant slingback shoes with circus tent stripes; though one of the smartest ideas were randomly placed fabric grommets on white cocktails and natty new totes.

Being Fendi there were lots of fur references, from a splendid peacock green knitted elongated waistcoat to some very snazzy mink and fox trim of jeweled clutches.

The show also featured a remarkable new hairstyle, an ever so faintly disheveled bouffant, that designer Karl Lagerfeld called, "Monica Vitti in a storm," in reference to the famed Italian actress.

Snippets of conversations lifted from Michelangelo Antonioni's 1961 movie "La Notte," in which Vitti stars, filled the soundtrack. In an evocative evening finale, a series of layered tulle and chiffon looks, each more arty than the other, captured the moody beauty of this classic film, a meditation on the occasional pointlessness of polite existence, and the need for an individual to give life meaning by living it sincerely and honestly.

No wonder there was an overriding feeling leaving this show that this was indeed a Fendi existentialist moment, since this was all about honestly crafted chic.

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