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Christopher Kane's Transparent Sophistication

Godfrey Deeny
September 19th, 2011 @ 11:09 AM - London

If next spring's fashion will launch any major new trend it is surely floral transparency, where see-through layers of fabric reveal Pop Art flower, petal and leaf motifs, and the movement's greatest protagonist will be Christopher Kane, who staged a brilliantly realized runway show in London on Monday, Sept. 19.

"It's really about childhood drawings, girls getting up to fun stuff, some of which they maybe shouldn't be doing," joked Kane backstage to FWD, after his pastoral meets courtly brocade spring 2012 collection earned the biggest applause so far of London Fashion Week.

Staged in a beautiful new high-tech office complex called One Exchange in the City of London, models strode out across a shiny metal plate catwalk, the runway cut like a gigantic horizontal funnel. Kane has been doing courtly glitz for a couple of seasons, but this collection took it to a new level, with its subtly executed layered coats, dresses and tops through which peaked an explosion of British garden flowers. Made in plastic, they were heat sealed onto inner toiles, allowing the clothes to breathe enough to wear in summer heat.

Yet for his cool opening Kane concentrated on brocades, a posh fabric that the designer manages to use with street credibility, cutting with diagonal slashes, pairing with Tennis singlets and emblazoning with crystal clusters. The same crystals that tweaked a great series of athletic sneakers and opened toed sandals that will be the must-have footwear of next spring.

"After 10 days in New York, the girls all screamed with relief when I showed them the shoes, without any high heels," Kane explained with his customary Scottish burr.

The show also highlighted Kane's partnership with hipster Los Angeles jeans brand, J Brand, like great denim peg-legs with star encrusted snow crystal knees. All of these look great - and also sure to ignite followers.

Why is it that Kane is regarded as such a great young talent? For the important reason that he ignites major trends, without repeating himself, yet somehow manages to have enough of his quirky sophisticate DNA each season that each item is recognizably Kane, yet always that vital bit new.

This was Kane and his best and truest.

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