Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Calvin Klein’s Tender Chic

Godfrey Deeny
September 15th, 2011 @ 3:11 PM - New York

Talk about a pure distillation of a house's signature style. On Thursday Sept. 15, in New York, Francisco Costa presented his latest collection for the house of America's high temple of minimalism Calvin Klein, and his latest runway outing proved to be a brilliantly tender reinterpretation of the label's pared-down sense of style.

"Romantic eroticism," was how Francisco Costa summed up the collection after the show, staged in Klein's own show-space on West 39th street in the heart of Manhattan's Garment District.

Created without prints and in the strictest of color palettes - nude, dusk, gardenia and petal - this collection was also a brilliant piece of self-editing. Costa sculpts clothes rather than cuts them; since he drapes with gusto and has acquired a smart understanding of how to curve and elongate a dress without adding pounds visually to the final result.

Elzabethan style jackets with Peplums hems, and high-tech finished slip dresses all captured the Klein reined-in tradition.

Presented on androgynous models, many of whom were very new faces, the collection featured all sorts of noble resources.

The defining memory of this show was the sheer self-confidence in which Costa approaches fashion today. Sculpting a cocktail dress with exposed seams flatters the figure even as it exalts it. The designs were purists clothes for true believers in the minimalist school of Calvin Klein.

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