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Proenza Schouler's Somber Spring

Godfrey Deeny
September 14th, 2011 @ 8:35 PM - New York

If there has been any dominant movement in American fashion in the past several seasons it's been the meeting of active sport clothing and materials with fine tailoring and a couture touch. And if any label has led that movement, arguably been its forerunner, then it is Proenza Schouler, who presented their spring 2012 collection in New York on Wednesday, Sept. 14.

Yet, even before the trend reached its zenith, the Proenza Schouler design duo of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had moved on, which is something of a pity, as they were the movement's finest exponents. Moreover, their determined drive to take their label to a new level has been a slightly patchy affair, as this rather somber series of clothes only confirmed.

There was no shortage of innovative ideas - eel skin hot pants paired with raffia tops; a natty and risqué series of semi-sheer crocheted raffia cocktail dresses finished with gym rat bustiers. Plus there was a fantastic finale - a foursome of embroidered tulle tops and dresses that had great ladylike poise.

And in a telling compliment, no young fashion label in the United States attracts such a swarm of buyers as Proenza Schouler - scores of retailers packed into this show expectantly.

Staged in a warehouse on the Hudson River, the models walked on a catwalk carpeted in golden beige shag, which appeared an attempt to upgrade the setting but only served to render the atmosphere more stiff. Indeed, far too many of the outfits were overly mature, and even gloomy.

Where Manhattan catwalks have been invaded by pastel florals, Proenza Schouler went for nighttime tropical plants. Plus their choice of fabrics seemed odd - how many women really want to wear technical nylon gabardine on a hot day?

So, if you're expecting dazzling blossoms in the spring and looking for insouciance in your wardrobe in 2012 then Proenza Schouler may not be your first destination. A brave and elegant step into a new direction, the downtown design duo's latest vision was just a tad too earnest, right at a time when the market seems to be demanding levity.

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