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.

Tommy Hilfiger's Irreverent Preppie

Godfrey Deeny
September 11th, 2011 @ 8:31 PM - New York

Talk about loads of respect. Everyone seems to taking the mickey out of the preppies in New York fashion, even as the very subversion indicates that this Anglo-Saxon style and sociological class is enjoying a major renaissance.

Take Tommy Hilfiger who titled the show he staged "Pop Prep." For there were plenty of Carnaby Street hues in this collection, the Pop era's haberdashery par excellence, though hardly a preparatory school graduates first choice.

Staged on the evening of Sunday, Sept. 11, in The Theatre, the largest tent inside the Lincoln Complex where many of the major runway shows are staged, the proceedings opened with a half dozen outfits all prepared in bright pastel plaids. Everything from T-Shirt dresses to bikini bottoms paid ironic homage to preppiness.

Like in his menswear collection staged two days before, the designer packed his runway with camouflage prints, using them in micro-fiber running jackets and v-neck ponchos. Echoing anglo saxon sporting traditions, Hilfiger also sent out naval tops and rugby jerseys, though the bright hues and unusual stripes rendered them all very classic with a twist.

Through the first four days of the season, one senses that designers believe there is a yearning for a sense of ease and decorum in dress. Reflecting that, this season has marked the big return of the kaftan, especially at Hilfiger, who ended this spring 2012 collection with great color blocked kaftans, the very epitome of forgiving fashion. Seeing that they came in orange, mustard and tomato red, and thus more pop into prep, these chic looks subverted the preppie phenomena by its over-the-top color, even as they revived this old school of imagery and mores.

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