Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Lanvin: Turning Swords into Ploughshares

Godfrey Deeny
June 26th, 2011 @ 2:41 PM - Paris

Turning militarism into something chic, reinventing the visual codes of the military to suggest something poetic may sound like a stretch, but it was the basis of the stylish, novel and dreamily subtle collection presented by the house of Lanvin this weekend in France. The result was the most accomplished wardrobe and single most inventive collection seen in the Europe this month, in either Milan or Paris.

Staged Sunday, June 26, in the former commodity market of Paris, a beautiful circular cut stone and giant glass roof structure, this spring 2012 menswear collection was above all a heroic moment, where the very grandeur of the location complimented the sophistication of the clothes.

The opening half dozen models looked like returning heroes, albeit officers who had all just had a long shower, and been to see a very savvy tailor. Tunics and wide-sleeved bomber jackets in micro-fiber so fine it looked like liquid metal, all anchored with ammunition style belts, managed to be tough yet graceful,

The collection then crossed from the armed forces to airmen, with lots of long zippered redingotes, flight jackets and pilot’s jerkins in chiffon and mercerized cottons.

“Militaristic, yes, but an army that begins as one of force but ends up one of peace,” explained Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz, after he and the house’s menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver took an extended bow to the noisiest applause of the Paris season.

The duo took their share of risks in tailoring; especially several pagoda shoulder felt cotton suits in strawberry or blood orange – ideal images for future editorial shoots.

Adding to the sense of a complete wardrobe, were the leather brogues with erratic woolen stitching, as if mended by a corporal in a foreign fox hole, or dark paratrooper boots with zips in weird hues like turquoise and silver.

“There’s a certain, strange attitude that journalists can only understand one thing at a time. So that a runway show should just have one idea, one silhouette, one aesthetic. But to me journalists are also consumers, who like to see different propositions, which is what we wanted to suggest in this show,” Elbaz explained to FWD.

Whether or not many man will swallow all of the Lanvin propositions is open to debate: wearing a jacket over leather tunics over trousers is not for most gents, nor are leather shorts in summer.

But these are small quibbles compared to the bravura elegance of this collection, nine tenths of which was pretty sensational. Most particularly the finale – officer beat poets in tie-dye leggings, pajama fabric shirts and elongated gunners jackets. The ideal ending to a collection dedicated to the proposition so famously expressed in the Bible's Isaiah 2:4.

“They shall beat their swords into ploughshares, and their spears into pruning-hooks; nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither shall they learn war any more.”

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