Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Raf Simons: From Banking to Bulky

Godfrey Deeny
June 26th, 2011 @ 00:25 AM - Paris

Few shows more summed up the restrained mood of the Paris menswear season better than the latest by Raf Simons, an avant garde designer famed for theatrical shows, who unveiled his spring 2012 collection on Saturday, June 25, in the historic headquarters of France’s biggest bank in the Wall Street of this nation.

Staged in the radically renovated neoclassical atrium of Credit Lyonnais, a monumental building taking up a whole city block two minutes from the Bourse de Paris, the collection was a populist take on neoclassical hipster style.

Simons would appear to think that next spring will be wet, as a good third of his looks were raincoats, waterproof jerkins and car coats.

A Swinging Sixties mood permeated the clothes as at least a dozen plaids trench coats and swing jackets were given a reefed in A-Line cut. Simons was so obsessed with plaid, he dressed several guys in matching tartan T-shirt, jacket and mackintosh.

The silhouette felt like a Beatles album cover. And like several other key designers in Paris this season, Simons donned his models in leather T-shirts and tank tops – a tricky wear even for fashion conscious men. For such an inventive designer, this as a restrained collection – right down to the simple brogues chose as shoes, albeit with quirky chain trim.

The designer’s line was consistent throughout – narrow, almost drainpipe pants under the splayed jackets and coats. In a big styling trend here in Paris, each model's hair was coated in latex – it makes for a great effect, though a demanding preparation if one wants to go out to dinner or a club.

Simons’ coolest looks were subtle patchwork shirts, composed of vertical strips of contrasting fabric. His own large, fold out invitation was somehow telling - a huge orange X was stamped across it. That normally means negative.

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