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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Dior Homme: Less Really Is More

Godfrey Deeny
June 25th, 2011 @ 10:15 AM - Paris

Less was very visibly more at Dior Homme on a sunny Saturday, June 25, in Paris, when the tailored refinement of the house’s latest menswear collection synched smartly with the charming unfussiness of this show’s great staging.

An elegantly constructed and enlarged version of Dior’s world headquarters in Paris, the set was like an architectural model that was nearly twice as large as the original.

“The first five looks were like toils,” Kris Van Assche explained backstage to FWD, using the French term for patterns made of light fabrics. “And just as you can see through a toile, you could see through this setting, since these walls were transparent fabrics.”

Van Assche entitled the collection “LessAndMore,” an ideal title given the way the artfully constructed garments had a hipster grandeur by virtue of their deceptive simplicity.

His opening quintet was in felt ecru cottons and wools, the jackets draped with aplomb and cut away at the front, the trousers trimmed at the ankles with mini turn-ups.

Subtly mixing hard and soft, Van Assche paired laser cut leather vests and tops with floating cotton trenches and reefer jackets; and trimmed waistbands and lapels with tobacco-hued lambskin. Paired with wingtip bovver boots and punk rock wristbands, the look was gentlemanly yet street sharp, a tricky balancing act, but one this designer accomplished well.

Van Assche has also built a respectable hat business for Dior, this season showing everything from white felt stove pipes to coal black rebel fedoras. Indeed, he now must rank as the leading hatter among men’s designers anywhere.

Composed in tobacco, pacific blue and dark as night turquoise, the collection was right in line with the deeply somber color palette seen throughout this season in Paris, a gigantic contrast with the effervescence and optimism of Milan spring 2012 menswear shows last weekend.

But the big message here was Van Assche's evident self-assurance, a designer given the job at Dior of succeeding a design legend, who today struck one as very much his own man, and very much in control of his own history. Not at all a bad place to be.

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