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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Giorgio Armani’s Geometric Groove

Godfrey Deeny
June 21st, 2011 @ 9:10 PM - Milan

Giorgio Armani, beside being Italy’s most famous designer is also the peninsula’s greatest tailor, and he reminded his fans of precisely that with some nattily cut new jackets in his latest signature show, presented Tuesday, June 21, in Milan.

However, while his newly deconstructed jackets – bereft of even the slightest shoulder padding – had a swell new silhouette, his biggest innovation this season was the way he used geometric graphics and zig zags to subtly alter the look of much of this collection.

Armani printed window panes and graphic patterns on nylon silk raincoats, sleek shirts and neat bomber jackets, all of which looked elegant, yet the right side of edgy.

But his classiest moments were his new shortened, double-breasted jackets, cut above the hip and finished with trim trousers, shaped lower in the crotch and finished just above the ankle, the new cut off point throughout this season in Milan.

“It’s true that this is a particularly short double breasted. It really is a new jacket, but not the first time I tried deconstruction. My first deconstructed jacket, an empty shouldered look, was in back 1972. And if you don’t believe me, then look it up!” Armani told FWD.

In a sign that many of the major Italian houses, are rebounding from the recession, Armani even sent out a chocolate colored crocodile baseball jacket, so supple it felt like as if made of lambskin, which was faintly scary in terms of price. Staff told FWD it will retail for around $25,000.

Post show, the designer was in an ebullient mood, bristling to start a polemic with a score of Italian journalists backstage.

“I don’t want to be polemical always, but to me this insistence on being different just to be cool and hip, is not wrong. I prefer that men, and women, look elegant. And what annoys me is the way magazines give space to these sort of excesses! I am doing a serious job. I have factories to keep working, and the shops that must attract clients. So we need to ask ourselves, exactly what is concept of a show? Is it to sell clothes, or a way to attract attention?” he scoffed backstage.

On Sunday, in his junior Emporio Armani collection, the designer had taken a minimalist tack, with a taut silhouette, radically reduced lapels and streamlined new jackets where the overriding color was pale gray. So, in the most hyper color men’s season in living memory, Armani’s response was the most restrained color palette imaginable. Perhaps his biggest polemic of all.

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