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Burberry Whimsically Cool New Look

In fashion, as in life and sometimes romance, it's important not to take things too seriously, and that's why the latest men's collection from Burberry presented on Saturday, June 18, in Milan was such a great fashion moment.

Bizarre and dreamily indulgent, the collection injected all sorts of diverse references - from Sixties Jet Setter chic and posh hippie notions to Mediterranean dandy codes and snazzy artisan finishes. Yet though it subverted the whole serious, arctic explorer DNA of this unique British brand, it's very eccentricity only added to Burberry's cool allure, in a brilliantly innovative collection by the house's highly assured designer Christopher Bailey.

Take several very feminine elements - raffia, cork and central Asia embellishments. Raffia, traditionally a straw weave used in women's bags, appeared in tam-o'-shanter caps, shoe inserts and most spectacularly in curvy coats - in a capricious coolly way.

Cork, a material first made fashionable in the Sixties when trendy travelers discovered and made famous beautiful islands like Capri, Mykonos and Ibiza, popped up in quirky shoes and dandy moccasins.

Ikats, a dyed fabric originally from Uzbekistan, added zest and wit to dandy pants and tapestry shoes.

"I think it was time for a little whimsy, and something far more tactile in fashion. The Internet is an amazing force but it seems to suggest that you can grasp anything just by seeing it on the web. You can't. Some things have to be felt by hand," Bailey said backstage, after a show transmitted directly on the web.

It was a rather remarkable admission, especially as no other important brand in fashion has built as significant a retail presence as Burberry on the Internet. Doubly so, as consumers could order much of the collection directly from Burberry's corporate website during this show.

Among the great tactile elements where hand crocheted and beaded collars on curvy-shouldered Raglan coats and trenches; and, somewhat weirdly for a spring collection, a series of Alpine sweaters with radial and snow pattern designs. But on closer inspection these were silk jumpers where the designs were made of hand painted shards of wood.

Weathered in finish, and even disheveled in it's styling, this was a brilliant counter blast to Burberry's own carefully crafted image. The house trades on connecting with Cool Britannia and hipster Indy U.K. brands, but it's intensely corporate drive had of late come across as a tad too formulaic. Few things better summed that up than Bailey's promotion last year from creative director to a to the militaristic new title of chief creative officer.

But instead of wielding a marshal's baton, this season in Milan Bailey sagely changed tack and offered a lovingly prepared expression of hand-crafted pizzazz. Little doubt this will turn out to be one of the European season's best shows and collections.

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