Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Burberry Whimsically Cool New Look

Godfrey Deeny
June 18th, 2011 @ 7:26 PM - Milan

In fashion, as in life and sometimes romance, it's important not to take things too seriously, and that's why the latest men's collection from Burberry presented on Saturday, June 18, in Milan was such a great fashion moment.

Bizarre and dreamily indulgent, the collection injected all sorts of diverse references - from Sixties Jet Setter chic and posh hippie notions to Mediterranean dandy codes and snazzy artisan finishes. Yet though it subverted the whole serious, arctic explorer DNA of this unique British brand, it's very eccentricity only added to Burberry's cool allure, in a brilliantly innovative collection by the house's highly assured designer Christopher Bailey.

Take several very feminine elements - raffia, cork and central Asia embellishments. Raffia, traditionally a straw weave used in women's bags, appeared in tam-o'-shanter caps, shoe inserts and most spectacularly in curvy coats - in a capricious coolly way.

Cork, a material first made fashionable in the Sixties when trendy travelers discovered and made famous beautiful islands like Capri, Mykonos and Ibiza, popped up in quirky shoes and dandy moccasins.

Ikats, a dyed fabric originally from Uzbekistan, added zest and wit to dandy pants and tapestry shoes.

"I think it was time for a little whimsy, and something far more tactile in fashion. The Internet is an amazing force but it seems to suggest that you can grasp anything just by seeing it on the web. You can't. Some things have to be felt by hand," Bailey said backstage, after a show transmitted directly on the web.

It was a rather remarkable admission, especially as no other important brand in fashion has built as significant a retail presence as Burberry on the Internet. Doubly so, as consumers could order much of the collection directly from Burberry's corporate website during this show.

Among the great tactile elements where hand crocheted and beaded collars on curvy-shouldered Raglan coats and trenches; and, somewhat weirdly for a spring collection, a series of Alpine sweaters with radial and snow pattern designs. But on closer inspection these were silk jumpers where the designs were made of hand painted shards of wood.

Weathered in finish, and even disheveled in it's styling, this was a brilliant counter blast to Burberry's own carefully crafted image. The house trades on connecting with Cool Britannia and hipster Indy U.K. brands, but it's intensely corporate drive had of late come across as a tad too formulaic. Few things better summed that up than Bailey's promotion last year from creative director to a to the militaristic new title of chief creative officer.

But instead of wielding a marshal's baton, this season in Milan Bailey sagely changed tack and offered a lovingly prepared expression of hand-crafted pizzazz. Little doubt this will turn out to be one of the European season's best shows and collections.

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