|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Costume National’s Ultra Sound Rockabilly Chic
June 18th, 2011 @ 11:58 AM - Milan
British youth culture, long a source of fascination for Italian fashion designers, was the techno-rarefied theme of the latest collection from Costume National Homme, the true home of rocker dandy chic in Milan.
But this season the rock-n-roll aesthetic took a new, sporty, futurist twist in the spring 2012 collection staged Saturday, June 18, the opening day of the Italian menswear runway season.
“Techno rockabilly,” smiled Capasa backstage after the show, whose highlights were the crafty combination of technical fabrics, trailblazing seaming and nonchalant youth clubbing style - all together making for an intriguing and impressive fashion moment.
Capasa, a southern Italian whose key influences remain his unusual design training in Tokyo and teenage summers spent shopping and experimenting in London, has always been gutsy innovator. Especially in this display, when he even used ultra sound technology to mesh with foam the sleeves of technical cotton clubbing shirts and waterproof jerkins. High-frequency heat molding fashioned 3D pockets; thermo welding created sleekly new tailored jackets.
Summoning up the somber mood in Milan on an unseasonably damp weekend, Capasa’s color palette in this show, staged in a revamped factory in south Milan,
was dark - bottled green, worn anthracite and washed gray buffalo.
Capasa remains a cunning tailor, whose artfully understated tailoring, from laser cut lapel micro jackets to hounds’ tooth check Teddy Boy drape jackets, had just the right mix of racy and cool.
The Costume National man has always been something of a night hawk, devoted to after midnight clubbing and most at home with a VIP laminate entering the backstage of a mega rock concert. This season he harked back to an earlier era, of Sixties and Seventies rock, best summed up by the shoes most models, and Capasa himself, wore in this show – woven leather brothel creepers with crepe rubber shoes. Very much like this designer’s whole aesthetic, a gentlemanly dandy with a dark late night music twist.
Rockabilly, a meeting a half century ago of country music and style with rock’s driving energy was the very term to sum up this collection – real but also ruddily good.