Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Coal Dust Chanel

Godfrey Deeny
March 08th, 2011 @ 11:45 AM - Paris

In a fall 2011 fashion season of runways drenched in color, leave it to Karl Lagerfeld to stage a coal dust black collection for Chanel, shown among huge lumps of coal, crushed slack and mammoth bursts of steam.

A palette of crimson, teal and turquoise may be ruling Milan and Paris, though not at Chanel, where four-fifths of the collection came in a narrow band stretching from soot to battleship gray.

"It's not black, it's the new gray, with a new anthracite," said Lagerfeld, dressed in haute dandy style in a gray Christian Dior suit, crisp white dress shirt and black silk tie and boots, backstage after the show.

"I felt there had been far too much color around, for several seasons. But look around, most of us dress in black. Huh?" said Lagerfeld, motioning to the two score of editors who had penetrated the polite but heavy backstage security.

The designer did inject small doses of burnished red with boucle woolen jackets and autumnal greens for bolero looks made of sequins. But overall, the mood was almost funereal for evening. Chanel's atelier did wow with some delicate gray leaves on smoky chiffon tops or long delicate lace and fabric flower and feathered columns.

Plus, the opening looks of jackets worn with loose fitting wide pants immediately made for a new Chanel silhouette that will appeal to a younger audience.

By any standards it was a bizarre set - a post-apocalyptic rectangle surrounded by 2,000 coiffed guests, the whole lot oddly dissected by a pristine curving boardwalk.

"It was a combination of modernist architecture and old images of the forest, the sort one sees in silent movies," explained the Chanel designer.

And indeed, on the massive walls were projections of what Lagerfeld intended would be primeval forests, but which the show producer managed to make look more like x-rays of one's teeth.

In case one did not get the sylvan message, it was made clear on the soundtrack; The Cure's '80s classic, "The Forest," itself a murky tune, just like this collection.

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