Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Viktor & Rolf’s Armored Tudor Army

Godfrey Deeny
March 06th, 2011 @ 00:05 AM - Paris

If you like your fashion theatrical, highly staged and designed to make a dramatic effect then the brand for you is Viktor&Rolf, whose latest collection seemed designed never to be worn off a runway or a stage.

But if you prefer fashion to be somewhat useful for everyday life, then there was not much point in attending the latest runway display of the Dutch design duo. Because this show, staged Saturday, March 5, in a huge tent in Paris’ Tuileries Gardens, was a funny mix of the pretentious and portentous. Armadillo pleat coats, jackets with eight-inch wide felt stars and what looked like ragged chiffon dish clothes sewn into lumpy cocktails; all of it was just that touch too absurd.

The images were certainly striking, and will fill their share of editorial pages in glossy magazines, but even the avant garde clothes horses that throng to the standing sections of big shows in Paris or London would be hard put to don this Tudor-influenced collection.

And, even allowing for a desire to create conceptual images, why hire some of the prettiest models in the world, and then paint all their faces entirely fire engine red?

That’s not to put into question the technical skills of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, or their sense of staging. The regiment of Medieval, robotic looking models did all march with drama over a drawbridge to the sounds of Verdi’s Aida. Which, come to think of it, is another place this collection could be worn – in an opera.

The event was also a largely a retailer free zone, understandably seeing how useful unfriendly the collection was. And when even though the drawbridge stayed after down the show, nobody much went backstage.

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