Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
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Zac Posen’s Sculpted View of Things
Godfrey Deeny
March 03rd, 2011 @ 7:13 PM - Paris
If any American designer knows how to cut to the human figure it is surely Zac Posen, who presented his fall 2011 women’s ready-to-wear collection on Thursday, March 3, in Paris.
Posen has always been a theatrical designer, but his decision to show in Paris, and not New York, has surely been a sage one, since he’s gradually reined in his over dramatically tendencies in favor of a more streamlined silhouette.
Cutting to the torso, placing darts beguiling up and down the spin and nipping at the shoulder, Posen created a clever collection where the clothes complimented the figure and did not hide or restrain it.
“Biometrics, studying the human body, and sculpting clothes that fit it. And, I did the whole thing without any staff,” an ebullient Posen said backstage after the show.
His best ideas were jersey cocktails, exactingly cut looks made in teal, dark turquoise and petrol green, often worn by models whose eye liner came in the exact same colors. The American designer did not keep it simple, adding mini ruffles, faux pockets and little frills, though never in a heavy handed manner.
Staged in a construction site in Paris’ contemporary Palais de Tokyo museum, Posen cleverly installed a giant red velvet curtain, so each model looked like an actress taking an extra bow after a fine stage performance.
Sleek party dresses in mixed panels of snakeskin and stretch nylon all had plenty of va va vroom, and clearly pleased the top-level casting of models. They gave Posen a huge cheer backstage post show, excitedly posing for photos with the designer, himself attired in a trim three-piece gray suit with super skinny tie.
Not all of Posen’s leather jackets worked; he still could do with a little self-editing, but this was a clever take on evening dressing.
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