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Zac Posen’s Sculpted View of Things

If any American designer knows how to cut to the human figure it is surely Zac Posen, who presented his fall 2011 women’s ready-to-wear collection on Thursday, March 3, in Paris.

Posen has always been a theatrical designer, but his decision to show in Paris, and not New York, has surely been a sage one, since he’s gradually reined in his over dramatically tendencies in favor of a more streamlined silhouette.

Cutting to the torso, placing darts beguiling up and down the spin and nipping at the shoulder, Posen created a clever collection where the clothes complimented the figure and did not hide or restrain it.

“Biometrics, studying the human body, and sculpting clothes that fit it. And, I did the whole thing without any staff,” an ebullient Posen said backstage after the show.

His best ideas were jersey cocktails, exactingly cut looks made in teal, dark turquoise and petrol green, often worn by models whose eye liner came in the exact same colors. The American designer did not keep it simple, adding mini ruffles, faux pockets and little frills, though never in a heavy handed manner.

Staged in a construction site in Paris’ contemporary Palais de Tokyo museum, Posen cleverly installed a giant red velvet curtain, so each model looked like an actress taking an extra bow after a fine stage performance.

Sleek party dresses in mixed panels of snakeskin and stretch nylon all had plenty of va va vroom, and clearly pleased the top-level casting of models. They gave Posen a huge cheer backstage post show, excitedly posing for photos with the designer, himself attired in a trim three-piece gray suit with super skinny tie.

Not all of Posen’s leather jackets worked; he still could do with a little self-editing, but this was a clever take on evening dressing.

		* Thom Browne Spring 2014 * Delpozo Spring 2014